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The new manifold is in-I do not note any leaks around the perimeter.Yet,the car is still leaking antifreeze at the rear,and dripping below the clutch.(Prior to the manifold replacement,it leaked by the thermostat and I suspected somewhere at the rear of the motor.
Any ideas? Given the tight motor fit,it's hard for a driveway guy to diagnose.
Thank you.

followed all the steps but the key will not turn to the run position

My check engine light will illuminate for more days than not but it comes on for a few days and then it will turn off for a day. It seems to, possibly, come back on after the car heats up or has been driven 30 to 40 miles. I replaced the gas cap already.

but when I increase the setting to 3, 4 or 5 it stops, what might this indicate as a problem

The third gear does not want to stay in after car is warm.Been happening for 7 mths.No one seems to have an answer.Other then replacing the trany.Not cheap for a six year old car.Any one find a ford recall on that problem?

We have had this problem for over a year. It has been to our trusted GMC dealer shop several times with no resolution of the problem. VERY FRUSRATING!! Help, please!

whenever I turn sharp it makes a grinding/clicking sound through the turn. it only happens with sharp turns but in both directions it makes noise on left front side

Yes, my truck is a 2000 year, Chevrolet, C3500 Crew Cab with long truck bed. Anyway, I was wondering how common it is for the valve body to wear out on the 4l80E transmission? Reason is, my truck shifts great at the start of the day but as I drive it up to operating temperature or approxiamtely 30 minutes my truck will shoft out of fourth gear/overdrive into third gear and remain in third gear until I shut of the truck say for about 10 seconds and will start shifting fine until it does it all over again. What do you think is the cause a bad or worn out valve body or torque convertor? I don't know and don't want to shell out money unnecessarily. I also, do not get any check engine lights. I have taken it tom two transmission places and the first palce AMMCO told me I got a code, P1870 "Transmission component slipping" and I need a full rebuild for $2000.00 which I don't think I do becuase the tranny shifts too good when cold, like brand new until it gets up to temperature and the second transmission guy and independent transmission specialist told me that I need to get the valve body reamed out to install a updated Actuator Feed Limit Valve and change out the force motor or EPC, Pressure Control Solenoid and change out some seals inside the valve body to fix it. One more thing, I do get more of a harsh shift from 1 to 2 gear when the transmission kicks out of fourth gear or overdrive. Suggestions would be appreciated and what direction I should go in. If it helps I have found a brand new valve body with all the solenoids valves etc and transmission filter and pan gaskets etc. for $224.95 that I was thinking about purchasing and replacing the valve body in my truck to possibly solve this issue. What is your thoughts? Thanks, very much, Bob

AM I BETTER OFF PURCHASING A REMANUFACTURED/REFURBISHED
NEW HEAD THAT HAS BEEN COMPLETELY REBUILT FOR MY ENGINE SIZE?

When I first start my truck and put into drive, the transmission shifts roughly from 1st to 2nd gear (not bad for any other gears, though). There also seems to be a high pitch squeal at higher RPM's in first gear, right before shifting to 2nd. However, the more I drive and the warmer the transmission gets, the shifting seems to be a lot smoother (what I would consider normal) and the squeal goes away. This has been going on for almost a year, but hasn't seemed to get any worse. Would anyone have any ideas to what is happening and any solutions before I take it in for repair?

I htink it might b my starter but it dnt make any clunking noises or ticking sounds so I dnt know what it could be.

Engine oil is at max limit, also when engine is cold there is no noise. this is not new, I've had it for about 15K miles. I have now 60K miles. No apparent side effects, and tapping has not gotten louder or worse than what it initially was. if I rev the engine (parked) slowly, the tapping stays, the noise though subsides momentary if the engine is rev'ed suddenly. I heard other 3series cars in the same model period have the same tapping noise.. but there are no recalls related.. The noise bugs me. One mechanic gave me an off the cuff response, that BMW service interval is too long and causes such symptoms to exist in the 1st place. He did not recommend any engine cleaners though.. I am planning to sell the car some time this year, and worry more about potential buyers devaluing the car or worse not buying the car.. any tips and recommendations are greatly appreciated.

I i have changed the coil and no spark to the coil ihave replaced all the sensors in tranny why wil it not start

car was running fine then the belt staped due to to power steering pump now it wont start

My timing belt went on my car, and I was fortunate enough to be sitting still idling, so no apparent damage to valves. I got everything back together, and it runs without a miss at all, but after a few seconds running, I gett a tapping noise in valve cover, and my oil light comes on. I noticed when lining up timing marks, that to put the oil pump in time, it was difficult to turn, couldn't hardly turn by hand, used a socket. I pulled bolt and and put a pin in the front of the engine to determine it was in right position. A couple friends said it sounds like the oil pump went which is why the timing belt went. Ot could this be a combination of of oil pump, and me having the timing 180 out?