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This problem has been going on for about 6 months now. Its been at the shop for the last few months and they couldnt figure it out. It started by sputtering and sometimes dying at stop lights. Then started stalling if you hit the brakes too hard. Sometimes after stalling it would take a minute to start and when it did a substantial amout of black smoke would come out of the exhaust indicating flooding/ richness. So i started replacing parts based on recommondations from other mechanics. New: fuel pressure regulator, plugs and wires, distributor assembly, fuel pump, egr valve, throttle position sensor, pcv valve along with intake plennum gasket, ive gone through all the vacuum lines and replaced quite a few. So now it will start up fine and idle great. It will run all day in park, reverse, ant neutral, but stalls as soon as you put it in drive. You can turn the wheels all the way right and back to center, but as soon as you turn the wheels left past center, it chokes out. It will also stall sometimes by just pressing the brake, with the brake booster vacuum line unhooked, it wont stall, so im assuming the booster is leaking somewhere. The power steering is also vaccum assisted, ive taken off and plugged up the two vacuum lines going into the control unit on the ps pump, and it still stalls when turning left. Im out of ideas. Thank you for reading. _mike
What's the best way to dry out the computer? It was running fine until a passing SUV caused puddle water to wash over the travelling car during a heavy rain storm 4 days ago!
I checked under the hood, but nothing stands out.
alt. gage stop working just befor missing, now after restars drive about 1mile and alt. gage stops working again put gas in carb. stars up
A broken radiator was change because it's shorts water easily.
Even now the replaced radiator does same.
Please what can I do?
after a few seconds sometimes the problem will clear & it runs ok again. sometimes you may have to cut ignition off to stop problem and it may or may not restart without a jump start & it runs ok until next time. has been to dealership, no trouble codes show up, no prolems found. HELP!
My RPM is dropping frequently mostly when I'm driving and I've gotten the catalyic concerter fix as well as my fuel pump and still having the same problems? What cluld possibly be wrong?
when driving the rear wheels lock up the brake pads are thin but not dragging theres no noises put on jack stands put in drive the tires start to spin and just lock up no noises to indicate problem the traction control light comes on when this happens
What can cause the this to happen? Could it be fan or blower module? I do hear a faint click like it wants to come on but it doesnt.
Im new here.Timing belt broke and bent all the valves in the head on my mothers 04 kia optima 2.4 auto.No problem because im a mechanic by trade.Removed head and had all new valves installed and had head shaved.Installed head and all new timing components.Engine light came on for a TPS code so I replaced with a TPS from Napa.Problem Im having as of last night(10/02/2015)is when AC is is turned on it has no power until about half throttle.Ive read a lot of articles about having to remove ecu fuse and disconnect battery--i tried that and it fixes nothing.I also read that it has to be taken to Kia to be programmed.This 1 has got me stumped because check engine light is off and no codes are present.Ive cleaned the maf sensor,throttle body and replaced gasket,cleaned IAC as well.Im leaning towards the non Kia TPS being the problem but not sure if the IAC is the problem because car runs perfect until AC is turned on. any help would be greatly appreciated...thanks