So my 2004 Cavalier was of course bought used, and the previous owner said there was a pretty bad wreck with this car, and it's on a salvaged title, so I'm not expecting it to run at its absolute best. Other issues with this car I have solved quickly and cheaply. However, I've noticed that at certain points when I drive, if I'm stopped at a red light or stop sign, the car will idle pretty sporadically. It jumps from below 1000RPM to over 3000RPM, and sometimes while stopped it will just die on me and turn off. At that point, I throw the car in park or neutral, turn it off and then restart, and it starts back up with no problems. But the high idle happens when I stop or even just as I start the car. Being that I am a female, mechanics like to think they can take advantage of me so I like to get all the opinions I can. Someone suggested it was probably the TPS "throttle position sensor" or the EIC "engine idle control". I was wondering if others have had this problem and that is what it turned out to be??

Cannot get dtc codes from pin 8 because lights immediately when connecting blinker code reader and will not go off. Getting code 10 from cc/isc module which indicates bad signal from bm module, i think.

car smells hot but not overheating. Oil level will be fine. No white smoke. Had head gaskets fixed (I think, maybe ripped off by "Cadillac Dr" in youngstown oh) had oil changed and place told me that I had oil pan leak. Have 140,000 miles and don't want to spend alot more money. (gasket fiasco cost me 2,100$. One yr. warranty. After 1 yr. car started acting up again. Please reply at email (

97 F250 7.3, 85K, at start up amp gauge registers 1/4 after a few minutes it goes to just above 1/2, replaced batteries & alternator, symptom persists..what's wrong ?

Struck can not trun down or off unless pull the fuse

Who: 2003 Mitsubishi Galant Es 4cyl.
1. Whiny noise high pitch when the accelerator is pressed.
Action1: (Shop said it was unfounded)
Action 2: I tune it out with the radio

2. I started hearing a rattle and then it completely started rattling.
Action1: added more engine oil 10/30 and it seemed to stop for awhile.

Action 2: added full quart of auto trans fluid.

3. I took it in because I did not want to deal with the hassle of fluid swap. I don't understand why it would be so damn low.

My car has been running good. Until now.

As of 0202 today
It has supposedly
1. transmission service
2. Midas oil changed and fluid swapped
3. Muffler shop replaced the front cat with manifold but removed the head shield
4. New radiator due to leaking
5. New 02sensor waterpump and timingbelt alternator

No codes pop up and no icons on the dash.

However I have placed about 7,000 miles since April and the work above was done in June.

There is no fluid leaking nor seeping anywhere.


It's been driving okay I never go above 3500rpms. I was entering this evening the on ramp which is not even steep and it got to 40mph and choked. It got stuck at 3500rpm and would not go past 45MPH.
I ended up getting off the next exit and coasting it . It had no problem speeding up to 50downhill and the got stuck at 55 and would not go faster rather it slowed down. After that on flat 30-40was the fastest. I parked it and added the 1qt transmission fluid and the rattling continued. . I hear the rattling from the front cat. I also checked for codes on the OB2 and nothing. Voltage check verified 13.88v for my alternator which is what is marked last time the shop looked at it. The transmission mount looks without removing all ok it's not doing the clicking rattling.

Do I add more transmission fluid? Will that help? This is my only car. I don't understand why it's having a hard time shifting from 2K to 2500 to 3K to 3500 rpms and the same for 40.

It got me down highway 1 twice in the last two weeks round trip plus SF... And countless times into solano area. If I let it sit a day will it make it better?

What can I do to trouble shoot this so at least I can get to work?

My hydraulic fan reservoir had a creamy white substance in it. It kind of looked like paint. Had a yellowish white tinge to it. now my car overheats within 5 miles off driving under 30 mph haven't been able to see if fan is turning. There's a steam being released near passenger headlight/under upper radiator hose close to the ground...any ideas?

I have about 3 fuses that aren't getting any power to them either.

The headlights flash sometimes an then sometimes they quit had the altanater checked an its good. When they start doing it, its like the motor pulses with the flashing of the lights. What could be the cause of this?

I can crank my car and go anywhere I want to but when I turn the car off and then go to crank it back up it doesn't want to crank back up. .. It Feels like its not getting enough power from the battery to crank it.

I just bought the van for 500$ and it has over 150000 miles what what is the first thing I should do I don't have money to pay someone to fix it Im gonna do it myself. Also get codes p0141 & b1s2

Thermostat + radiator changed ,antifreeze flushed and replaced, mech states bad guage any ideas what this may be I hear it's common in hummers? The guage stays half way while I drive goes up to 3/4 at idle never goes over never boils over, clutch fan does not have excessive play , please help this is getting expensive trying to fix.