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I understand there are a few air flow sensors involved in the operation of signaling the PCM to allow fuel to flow to the injectors. Would the most likely be the EGR Valve Control Solenoid/motor, or would the Vacuum Control Valve be likely to fail.
They will complete 1 wipe and get stuck in the up position, have to be manually pushed down.
It has happened 4 times now my husband fixes it and after a day or two it comes undone apart or whatever it's doing again. What could be causing this?
To chang spark plugs
To cangespark plug
The hazard lights work. The right tail light keeps going out aswell. When you hit it it comes on. Could it be lose wiring or fuses? Could not locate a fuse for the turn signals and the heater fuse looked fine. Had the car for about 6 months and about a month ago, that's when the problems started.
My car, a 2013 Chrysler 300 S (Glacier) with a 3.6L engine stays in AWD all the time and does not shift into RWD. I took it to the dealer, they said there were no codes found, except old one ESP. They said it meant nothing. Next day, I took the car to a local hotel’s heated garage and drove in circles about 1 mile on dry concrete at low speed, total time 40 min with breaks. The car still stayed in AWD. Car’s thermometer reading for ambient temp was 14* F all day long. The temp in the hotel garage was approximately 38*F.
I took the car back to the dealer. This time they updated BCM TEMP, created star case # XXX and kept the car in their shop overnight. They replaced temp sensor. Temp reading became 65*F. The dealer’s mechanic was driving the car in the shop but the car stayed in AWD. He wrote to Chrysler adviser that he noticed that when he put the car in neutral it changes to RWD but as soon as it put in drive it instantly changes to AWD. He was advised to REPLACE DTCM. Below is what was done:
Flash software for AMP, LBSS (?), BCM, PCM (I believe he meant DTCM).
On the service report it stated that now “AWD is working correctly. *Note that AWD will be active if outside temp is below 40* F (!!!!???), wipers are on or humidity is high (more then 20%), ESP off, and if the vehicle is in sport mode.” But when I came to get the car the problem was not fixed. The car started in RWD but the moment the mechanic began driving slowly the car jumped to AWD and started doing exactly the same as before: in neutral it changes to RWD but as soon as it was put in drive it instantly changes to AWD. The mechanic said that it is because of high humidity in the shop. I had to take the car home, it was New Year’s Eve but the service manager agreed that I could bring it back.
I am afraid that I will have to wait until spring, when the temperature is above 40*F, to verify that the car is shifting out of AWD and into RWD. Also, my manufacture’s warranty expires in March. Please advise me, if the highway is clear and dry but the temperature is about 30* F – should it be in AWD? (I have read the Owner’s Manuel.)
even after I changed the brake light switch 3 times. could there be a short or blown fuse somewhere?
Doesn't shudder at other speeds. Have checked balance, rotation, alignment of tires/wheels.
It has also started making a shshshshsh noise when I make right hand turns. Only right hand turns, but this is a new issue that I'm worried will get to be a problem if I don't get it fixed.
Repair includes removing the dash area, cleaning out around the heater box, and taking out the carpet kit, drying it out, using enzymes to kill the mold and mildew, and then putting the carpet back in the Jeep.
All lights work properly until brake pedal depressed, already checked brake switch and works fine. Checked front right signal wire and there is current when brake is applied? With lights on, and when brake applied front right turn signal does not work and right turn back light turns off and signal stops working?
This happens when I'm up shifting. I've replaced many components related to distributor but it keeps coming back, could it be a PCM? Or maybe a ground connection?