The car is a chrysler 300c(2006) The car makes a noise like it wants to start but is not catching. A thunderbolt light comes on that I've never seen before. When I looked it up in the owners manual it says that it's the electronic throttle control. I just bought a battery when I hit the car 4 months ago. Since my car has over 100,000 miles this issue isn't covered in my warranty.. Pls help I do not have $800 to put into the car right now I am hoping that this isn't the real issue. Also could the starter cause this issue

Hi I have this f150 that reacently has being mean to me. It stared to shake and jerking on acceleration reaching 40 mph it looks like I am on a horse, MIL is on scanner reads codes, P0301, p0355, p0356, p0100, two mechanics said is a coil pack issue, and electrical, other said its a timing and catalytic converter, at this point i dont want to spend much money on a truck with 180 t miles.

While driving and idling

fuses are good
new bulbs
tailgate light operational

This is long winded, please bear with me. Over the past 4 months, the car has died out of nowhere about 6 times, always at the same place in the road, about 10 min. from home. It cranks right back up, and I can drive it around all day, even for week, no problem. Til it happens again. This time it died the same way, but would not crank or start. Pulled it home and have been troubleshooting. I am a novice with cars, but am getting to know this one pretty well. So I checked the battery, it's at 12.6 V. I checked if I had a spark. I do, so cam and crank sensors should be fine. The lights dim when trying to crank, so ignition switch should be okay. The ignition coil readings are within specs. Used screwdriver to short post terminals on back of solenoid, and the starter motor spins. There is also a faint clicking noise from starter when trying to crank. I can hear the fuel pump (or injectors?) kicking in, there is a whirring sound when I turn the key to crank, but that is the only noise inside the car. I did have an oil leak from the cam sensor seal, and the car was out of oil when it died. I put oil in it. There was also oil in the black connector under the PDC. I cleaned it, let any extra drip out, and dried it out. I checked other wires and connectors and none have oil in them. I did the key dance and I jut got a code 12 for the battery being disconnected, which it was bc I charged it since it was getting low from trying to crank. So that leaves me with the solenoid. I checked solenoid w/ multimeter with pos. lead in the big braided wire and grounding the neg. I only got about 5V instead of 12V. I also removed the S terminal wire from the solenoid and shorted it with a screwdriver on the battery terminal (big one with a bunch of wires) and nothing happened except the starter fan spinning. It did not try to start the car. So I want to make sure before I try to find a ride to the parts store that there isn't anything I haven't thought of to check and this is most likely a bad solenoid. Do you have any questions, comments, criticism? :) I know this is really long, but I want to make sure I include everything I've done. Thank you so much for any help you can give. Thanks!

dash symbol for head lights indicates that cars automatic focus for road conditions is not working.

I've had my car taken apart twice. It's not the sunroof, windshield, Windows or doors.

Has 135,000 mi.
oil level fine

Will not idle while backing, seems like when I hold the brake it dies

After drive forward for a while it works perfectly ,it happened 3 time in 4 months