I have a 2001 Hyundai XG 300 and yesterday it decided not to start up.It sounds like its trying but it doesnt.This is all the work i have recently had done to it.I have had new EGR valve,Timing Belt and tensioners,new drivebelts,Spark Plugs and Wires,Crank Sensor, and a new air filter.These are the scan codes i have and its 10 total they are P0401,P1159,P1632,P1151,P1191,P1193,P0300,P0306,P0304,and P0302.Sometimes my car rpms would drop and then rev up on its own and it doesnt seem to have power at times no acceleration.and one night i punched my stock radio while i was driving at night time and my whole car cut off but started back up but thats not suppose to happen

we replaced thermostat and a black box on upper hose with a bleeder screw still no heat and heater core hoses are ice cold any suggestions

I'm thinking of buying a BMW X5 with 100k to 120k miles. What do you think? My last car (not a BMW) lasted 225k miles with little to no maintenance (regular oil changes, kept up on the routine stuff and had a great "roadside" mechanic)

- What do you think the average life of the X5 is? Can they easily get to 200k miles or will repairs get to frequent/expensive?

- Can a non BMW authorized mechanic do a good job on BMWs? He is a generalist (lots of Honda, Toyota, and American car experience but not much BMW specific).

- What main items would you tell me to look for in a prepurchase inspection. I plan to have a BMW shop do the prepurchase? What is a reasonable fee for a pre-purchase inspection at a BMW shop?

- Is there another BMW model that I should consider? I need 6 to 7 seats minimum....

- Any other advice? My other car choice is an Acura MDX. Dependability is important to me....

Any and all thoughts are appreciated.

Thank You,

Periodically, When I start my car, the radiator light shows up on my dash, and flashes. And I seem to fix after I loosen the reservoir cap, and tighten it back up again. Any thoughts? Also, I've had the water pump replaced, and a new hose put in. Thanks.

Recently this has gotten worse but when driving at lower speeds every once in a while I hear a loud Grinding squeeling gear sounding noise out of the Driver Sid Wheel. At first I thought it maybe Ice built up or debris between rim and rotor, after I checked it out the noise went away. Scare Tactic in my book however today it rose it's ugly face again and probably did this 10 times todays and suprisingly the only solution to make it shut up was to turn the 4 Wheel Drive on and off in the same motion. I can't help but wonder if this has to do with my Drive shaft. What do you think and what pricing are we looking at? Hopefully my Warranty is still valid. Thanks.

On the Volkswagon GTI. How do you get access to the thermostat as it is burried in a seamingly impossible place to get to the 2 bolt housing?

I drive a 94 Honda Civic Si Hatchback manual 1.6 V-tec. The engine is fine when cold. When it warms up a bit and sometimes when I push the accelerator to 3k+rpm while driving, it would bog or stutter or whatever you call it. I also have random idle drops and whenever I turn on any eletrical component like ac,headlights,radiator fan, and etc., the idle drops. The car also seems to be running rich as spark plugs become black pretty quick within a week with new plugs. Idle also revs to 2-3krpm while pumping brake pedal. I have changed my Fuel filter, Airfilter, Battery, Spark plugs/wires(NGK), whole new Distributor(NAPA), Coolant Temp Sensor(Honda), 2 Idle Control Valve(Junk), Air Temp Sensor(Honda), did a Coolant Flush, changed my fuel rail/injectors to known working ones, timing belt and water pump just done 1 year ago only. I am totally stuck, someone dare to have an answer or have come across this problem?

Engine stalls, and then dies while driving. Was just when over 50mph, now at any speed, then wont start right away like its out of gas. whats wrong???

1995 cadillac sls car idols rough and stall when i let off the throdle, i feel the gas pedal excelarating when sitting in traffic

air for the ac defrost or heater only comes out of dash vent not the floor or the defrost vents

The oil pressure warning light is staying on but the oil level is OK. I put in a new pressure switch but didn't solve the problem. I took off the oil filter and oil GUSHES out when cranking ... implying the oil pump is actually OK. The truck has 180K mi. I'd rather spend $5,000 on a new engine than $2,000 on a new oil pump for a tired engine.

Switched out the blower motor and the resistor. What can be wrong with my heater, it turns off and on, but airflow isn't as strong as it should be coming out of the vents/dashboard.

The heater blower motor typically only works on high. Occasionally it will turn on if on 3rd setting (4th is high). I'm guessing that the problem of earlier Taurus models where water gets into the motor is still an issue, but so far am not able to confirm that.

my toyota corolla 1999 has run 70000 miles. is replacement of timing belt needed now.if not when. one dealer had said that replacement is not needed.thanks for your advice

Where is the oil pump located?