This pipe is made of plastic failed and caused my engine to overheat replace my head gasket now he says no compression all because of this poor made part !!! Replacement is stainless steel thanx TOYota
Toyota Tacoma Problem Reports
Newest Toyota Tacoma Problem Reports
iam stuck in 4wd low and it is locked and will not come out how do i fix it i can not drive but 15mph please help
At higher mileages, an anti-lock brake system wheel speed sensor may wear out and illuminate the ABS warning light. It is recommended to replace the sensor with a factory part and be sure to clean all rust and debris from the mounting area because the mounting distance is critical. Failure to do so may result in the new sensor setting false trouble codes. Be sure to check the condition and runout of the front wheel bearings on the 2WD and 4WD vehicles and the CV joints on the 4WD vehicles since worn wheel bearings and/or CV joints can cause the ABS trigger rings to rub against the ABS sensors and damage them.
Running lights crack but headlight housing does not allow replacement of just daylight running lens. The entire front headlight assembly has to be replaced. Approximately $900 OEM repair. After market lights range from $150/pair to $400/pair for top of the line HID lights. Toyota charging $350 - $400 per light assembly and this is a manufacturing issue.
Toyota issued a recall on the lower ball joint due to the possibility of premature wear from improper finishing in production. The ball joints will be replaced under the recall. This recall applies to 2001-2004 models only. Please contact you local Toyota dealer to see if your vehicle is included.
Some engines have had the problem of the crankshaft pulley bolt coming loose. This will make a rattling noise as the engine idles. Our technicians tell us that the pulley bolt should have a thread locker applied and then retorqued.
The EGR System tends to get restricted or blocked with carbon after 100,000- 125,000 miles which will cause an emissions test failure for NOX. If the EGR system is equipped with an EGR temperature sensor it will trigger a Check Engine Light for improper EGR flow. The repair is to clean out the EGR passages and the EGR Temperature sensor. Our technicians tell this repair is pretty straight forward and takes about 1-1.5 hours. It is also wise to verify the EGR system components i.e. the Transducer, EGR Valve and VSV Solenoid at this time.
At higher mileages (125,00+) the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor may intermittently stop working, especially when the vehicle is fully warmed up. This can result in illumination of the Check Engine Light and/or an engine stalling problem.
At higher mileages (125,000+) the mass air flow sensors may cause the vehicle to idle rough, run rich and even stall. It is recommended to replace the mass air flow sensor with a factory unit because the aftermarket units have very mixed results.
Occasionally, the mass air flow sensor can go lean and set a code P0170 for fuel system lean. This in not an oxygen sensor problem. If there are no vacuum leaks, the mass air flow sensor may need to be replaced. Our technicians remind us to use a factory part because the aftermarket rebuilds are very inconsistent.
The amber front running lights, located in the head light assembly may melt or crack their lens. The correction at this time is to replace the head light assembly.
If the vehicle will not crank over, the most common problem is the starter, which tend to fail at about 100,00-125,000 miles. Sometimes it is only the starter solenoid contacts, but often the complete starter (including solenoid) needs to be replaced.
On vehicles with a manual transmission, worn shift bushings can cause the transmission to pop out of gear, especially when coasting down in 1st or 2nd gear. Replacing all the shift linkage bushings is pretty straight forward and not expensive and will commonly correct this concern.
A loss of power on the freeway may due to an internally leaking fuel pulsation dampener. This commonly occurs on higher mileage vehicles.