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2002 Pontiac Grand Prix Questions

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101
questions

FUEL RAIL PRESSURE IS AT 45 PSI-HAVE CHANGED ICM,CRANK POS SENSOR, PRESSURE REG, MASS FLOW SENSOR.
THE ONLY CODE STORED WAS FOR THE O2 SENSOR. NO OTHER CODE STORED. I SUSPECT THE PCM,BUT DON'T KNOW PROPER PROCEDURE TO CHANGE IT. PLEASE HELP AND THANKS!

Bought new maf sensor put it on now car wont stay running , put old one back on and it stay running , thought it was defective so exchanged it and same thing

installed a new lock cylinder and went thru the 10 minute relearn process 3 times...after a couple tries the car would start and stay running but the security light would flash for 10 minutes and then go out. Several days later it reverted back to starting and then cutting out after 2 seconds. Tried the relearn process again but it wouldn't stay running. out of curiosity i tried my remote starter and the car stayed running so it was operable to get it to a gm dealer. The dealer is now saying it shows a code 2960 and they want to replace the theft deterant module and cut out my remote starter...I never had any issues out side of my key sticking in the ignition hence the replacement of the lock cylinder. Is there a way a dealer can clear the code and reprogram the new lock cylinder with out chopping up my remote starter and replacing the theft deterant as i believe there is nothing wrong with module? any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

I have had an overheat issue. also water/steam comming out tailpipe. pulled intake manifold and found gasket was bad and manifold was cracked at center rear cylender. I dont see the conection between the water and the intake crack. is it more likely that the head gasket needs replacing as well or is it common for a bad intake manifold or gasket to creat this problem

I have a 2002 Grand Prix GT 3.8L. Just had the upper and lower intake gaskets replaced, the valve gaskets replaced, a new radiator, and a new 4th gear shaft put in my transmission as the car was not shifting from 3rd to overdrive (this works fine now). The problem I have is that when I depress the accelerator 1/4 to 1/2 the way down (seems like the same type spot each time), the car starts to jerk and the rpms go up and down during acceleration. Once I push the accelerator more to get past this oint, the car accelerates fine. This mostly happens when going up a hill and trying to maintain power going up the hill or, when accelerating slowly. When I punch it, no issues.

On occasion my ignition key will not turn all the way off. If I move my shifter back and forth a couple of times it will then turn off.

fuse is fine, how much to repair?

the car dont have no power or barely move and sputters when u take off.

i accidently put windshield wiper fluid in the coolant. can this hurt the car?

and why they keep going bad

and why they keep going bad

Its hanging on the right side but my left side just needs to be welded on.

The low coolant light comes on after a while it goes off but comes on back again. The heater blows cool air longer than usual it does get hot after a while.

This has just started happening recently and it is getting dangerous for my wife and four kids. Please help me

I bought this car new in 2002. It has 154,000 miles on it. I have always ran 10-30 synthetic valoline oil in it since day one and have changed oil and filter every 3000 to 5000 miles and still have sluge in the motor. When i take the oil cap off it has yellow gunk stuff up around cap. What could possible be going on with this motor.

Has far as the coolant problems, the motor does not over heat but, wants to use coolant every 2 or 3 weeks of normal driving. It wants to spray coolant all over the belt and battery on the right side of motor and notice some steam around top radiator and i have black soft flakes in the coolant. Also on the left side motor i ntoice water on top transmission. I have replaced water pump and heater valve tubes and flushed out coolant and replaced with new coolant. Sorry for length message. Thanks!