95
questions

front of car noises

Once it sputtered out it doesn't sound like it's getting gas any ideas..... really tired of just replace parts and the problem still exists.... and no it's not overheating.....

Once it sputtered out it doesn't sound like it's getting gas any ideas..... really tired of just replace parts and the problem still exists.... and no it's not overheating.....

its like my ignition is locked up. my key is stuck in the ignition and its turnt forward as if the car is still on

if I relearn another key will that effect the first key settings

I added coolant and that didnt help. I had to drive it home and it stalled on me twice. towards the end it wouldn't really go when I pushed on the gas. I made it home and its smoking bad.

This code came up today in a scan. So far, gas cap looks ok and have found no visible hose leaks. What else should I do?

my car will not crank. i am told that it is the ecu.
my neighbor has a car that is exatly like mine. will the ecu run mmy car?

I HAVE CHECKED FUEL RAIL PRESSURE, IT IS 45 PSI. REPLACED THE ICM- CRANK POSS. SENSOR-PRESSURE REG- MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR,I HAVE CHECKED FOR SIGNAL TO INJECTOR AND THERE IS NONE.

I WOULD LIKE TO BYPASS THE PASS-KEY SYSTEM BEFORE I REPLACE THE PCM. HOW CAN I DO THIS? THANKS

FUEL RAIL PRESSURE IS AT 45 PSI-HAVE CHANGED ICM,CRANK POS SENSOR, PRESSURE REG, MASS FLOW SENSOR.
THE ONLY CODE STORED WAS FOR THE O2 SENSOR. NO OTHER CODE STORED. I SUSPECT THE PCM,BUT DON'T KNOW PROPER PROCEDURE TO CHANGE IT. PLEASE HELP AND THANKS!

Bought new maf sensor put it on now car wont stay running , put old one back on and it stay running , thought it was defective so exchanged it and same thing

installed a new lock cylinder and went thru the 10 minute relearn process 3 times...after a couple tries the car would start and stay running but the security light would flash for 10 minutes and then go out. Several days later it reverted back to starting and then cutting out after 2 seconds. Tried the relearn process again but it wouldn't stay running. out of curiosity i tried my remote starter and the car stayed running so it was operable to get it to a gm dealer. The dealer is now saying it shows a code 2960 and they want to replace the theft deterant module and cut out my remote starter...I never had any issues out side of my key sticking in the ignition hence the replacement of the lock cylinder. Is there a way a dealer can clear the code and reprogram the new lock cylinder with out chopping up my remote starter and replacing the theft deterant as i believe there is nothing wrong with module? any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

I have had an overheat issue. also water/steam comming out tailpipe. pulled intake manifold and found gasket was bad and manifold was cracked at center rear cylender. I dont see the conection between the water and the intake crack. is it more likely that the head gasket needs replacing as well or is it common for a bad intake manifold or gasket to creat this problem

I have a 2002 Grand Prix GT 3.8L. Just had the upper and lower intake gaskets replaced, the valve gaskets replaced, a new radiator, and a new 4th gear shaft put in my transmission as the car was not shifting from 3rd to overdrive (this works fine now). The problem I have is that when I depress the accelerator 1/4 to 1/2 the way down (seems like the same type spot each time), the car starts to jerk and the rpms go up and down during acceleration. Once I push the accelerator more to get past this oint, the car accelerates fine. This mostly happens when going up a hill and trying to maintain power going up the hill or, when accelerating slowly. When I punch it, no issues.

On occasion my ignition key will not turn all the way off. If I move my shifter back and forth a couple of times it will then turn off.