93
questions

the car battery died and started right up after being jumped off. Now the car engine is running, but won't shift from park to drive. The rpm gage is jumping up even though I'm not accelerating. What could be causing this to happen?

It's coming from behind the crank shaft pulley it seems like from the housing it causes my car to over heat and not put out any heat whatsoever how can I fix it

heater only works on high and daytime running lights go out on 1 thru 4. i have changed the resistor.

Battery is charged but it just clicks if u boost rolls over real slow

Yesterday i rolled down my driver side front window half way then went to roll it back up and nothing. hit the down button again and it rolls down just fine, but will not move up at all. all other windows roll up and down with no problems, is this a bad switch or motor?

I reset the computer. Now car starts but won't go in gear and gauges don't work.

No gauges work, can't put in gear.

one second its full and then it's back to empty again and then back to full and then back to empty I don't know how much gas I got in itm

When in cooling the system blows air normally. When in heat it is unable to blow a significant amount of air through. You. Can hear the blower revving up trying to push the air through, it appears there is a door not opening to allow it to be adequately forced through the heater core. At one time someone was able to move something from the passenger side and it blew normal, but for the life of me I don't know what that was.

My heater/A/C control panel isn't working anymore. It was working intermittently for a while, only blowing heat or cold on fan 5 setting, and turning off my headlights when it went off unless manually turned on, then it went out completely. The rider information display went off and on with the A/C, and now it's off too. Is there a fuse I need to check? Or some other information somebody can give me? I have an aftermarket stereo, and that works perfectly. The A/C and rider information display both worked for several months after the stereo was installed. I did have an issue with the ignition switch when I bought the car, but that was fixed as well, and the A/C worked for 2 years after that. Any ideas?

I had the key for my car copied and didn't realize that it wasn't a microchipped key. My car was running perfectly. Then I tried to start the car with the new key. Started fine, stalled 3 seconds later. Did this twice, figured out the new key wasn't microchipped. Have been using my original key since. However, now my car won't accelerate, even on highways. Once up to running speed, it runs great, but it still sounds like it wants to sputter and it seems to sputter louder when idling. It doesn't stall, it just sputters. I don't know how to describe it, but when attempting to accelerate, it feels like the car can't breathe. Any ideas?