50
questions

I have checked fuses but they are fine.

Had a leak in intake manifold,wich caused the crankcase to fill with oil and the car was driven for a while like this.I replaced the intaken manifold gasket,now the push rods are opening the valves slightly so theres no compression, I have them withb the 5.68 lenghts in the intake and the 6"lengths in the exhaust valves but they are opening the vallves,there is no adjustment on the rocker arm,it says to just torque the rocker arm bolt down what could be wrong?Hope someone can help.

problem started with no cranking once in awhile then started back firing and stalling.now it cranks but wont start. sometimes it wont even crank.other times starts and runs fine for a while.shows no codes when running.

I read the article on this site:

brake-hydraulic-system-red-warning-light

I understand from this article this can be considered serious. The yellow ABS light has been on for years and for a long time the red brake light would come on intermittently. I could be parked in a parking lot with the engine running and light might just come on or go off. It does not flash or come and go quickly. It was off for months. Then back on again.

Brake fluid has never been low. Sometimes the light would come on or go off if I hit a bump in the road just right. I'm not kidding.

Now the red light stays on and therfore won't pass inspection. A diagnostic was done at the issue was determined to be the ECBM module. Unfortunately, this part is not made anymore and apparently the 1997 used a different kind of ECBM than the several years worth of models before and after it.

Garage working on it has gotten 2 different 1997 ECBM modules and neither has solved the problem and now they are doing "further diagnosis". This is racking up a major repair bill for a car that I don't drive more than a 1000 miles a year. I'm getting frustrated and just looking for some sense in what could be going on here as the mechanics seem to be stumped right now.

Thanks in advance for any info anyone can provide.

Cheers!

When I reach 50 mph it will start stalling like it is going to die but when I let off the accelerator it will run right again. I have to do this about 20 mins before the stalling stops

I'm a girl. I'm not an idiot but I need to go pick up the part so that I have it when my boyfriend comes home from work. I'd rather not jack up the car myself and try to figure it out if I don't have to.

I have been told that the alternator and brackets need to be taken off.I haven't had any trouble with heater,my low coolant light came on and I found that the hose was cracked.I have had this car for 10 years and haven't had no trouble at all.Is this a sign that I might have more trouble?

Every time I start my car and begin driving at first it feels like it has little power, it doesn't happen all the time. Once the ABS, Trac Off and low tire pressure light comes on car seems to drive fine. The other problem that I have is after starting the car the brakes feel like I am braking in ice and the ABS kicks in, until the warning lights come on. I was thinking maybe it could be a speed or abs sensor. This past winter I blew a brake line and had the rear trailing arm replaced. I took it to the Midas just down the road from me. I know it probably wasn't the best place to take it. But I didn't want to drive far or have the car towed. It didn't do this before I had the repairs. I have 1997 Grand Prix. With 160k miles

Puddle of oil under car everyday and am adding about 4 quarts a week

cars brake light with a warning signal came on and when I cut the car off it wouldn't crank at all everything locked up on it including the doors and I couldn't even open the door from inside .Now nothing works ,we chsrged the battery and it was fine.Do you know what this could be?




where is the sensor located