Q&A

No check engine light was on. However, 30days ago when originally thought it was just the battery (replaced even though battery tested well, so i believe the $75 battery terminal end repair), I had jump-started vehicle and for a good 4-5min upon starting engine would not idle, needed to be revved or stall, and finally "recovered" and acted normally. So, im not sure if loss of power that re-set everything (i.e.) time display, saved radio stations had temporarily effected something, or maybe that was "first" problem with idle motor, resumed functioning, and more problems on way but they caught diagnosis before regular symptoms appear. Thank you for answering. I'd prefer to save the $232, but not at the expense of "it was gonna start messing up, now you're on side of road". Your opinion/response on matter is highly appreciated. Thanks again. ~kevg3

WHEN PCM'S ARE RESET(BATTERY DISCONNECT OR SCANNER) MANY CARS HAVE TO GO THROUGH A RE-LEARN PROCESS. IF THE START-UP IDLE HAS BEEN NORMAL SINCE THEN , AND NO CEL ON , THEN IT SOUNDS LIKE IT'S OKAY. IF YOU WANT , IT WOULDN'T HURT TO HAVE IT SCANNED FOR 'PENDING' CODES.

Yeah, my thoughts are 50/50 leaning towards your side. Battery always seemed "weak" since purchase last Dec. (couldn't use headlight delay-off feature, accessories off cranks better), but it's a real nice '03 Overland, looks brand new in&out +motor), never had a stall last winter, or bad cold-start. 35days ago turn key, no start, lights accessories worked then not. Jumped it(had the no idle, must rev 5min.) Same day later, same issue. Had new battery installed but they expressed might be more than battery. 3wks later, no start, jump, get home, am no start, brought to dealer, (warranty is covering ALL sorts of other expensive stuff, AC evaporator, water pump, motor mount..). Great. But, then dealer says i "hav2pay $75 for terminal ends 2fix starting problem.... and idle air motor $232, pulley and serpentine belts $235 ..(warranty co replacing water-pump bcuz tech heard bearing noise)& vehicle needs all this, + H-valve, inspection fee". So, i just thought to self Hmmmm warranty is shelling them out $1,680, now they're seein what kinda extra cash they can squeeze out of me. *I did ask them to go thru vehicle well and fix ANYTHING warranty covered, just let me know if anything else necessary. Figured must need few things, maybe $300-$350. So, when they say $800+$100 deductible. I just had to question it. Like i said, only that once 35days ago did it ever "stall-out". Thank you as well for input. Greatly appreciated. ~kevg3

Didn't seem to have any problem last winter, no cold-start problems yet this year either, but that's what dealer said.. You haven't noticede because it hasn't gotten cold enough yet, but you will, says "he 'duplicated' event during diagnosis" gotta fix it or it won't stay running... Aaagghh, it's called being gored on the horns of a dilemma. Kinda screwed either way. Either $232 wasted, or 40-50days from now, i'm in 8degree weather on side of road waitin for AAA thinking, 'man $232 doesn't seem all that bad right now'. However, as i stated to answer #2, it gets ya thinking.. 'Ok warranty is payin for ALL this expensive little/big things wrong, dealer is sayin, "ok attach sumn to every covered problem y'kno? like warranty will pay for water-pump, but buddy you need to pay $235 to do pulley and serpentine belts, and umm yeah, idle control motor is $232 on you as well" That way i don't walk in, pay my $100 deductible + $75 to fix start + diagnose $169, which was what i was expecting, but instead get the extra $500-$600 added. Again thanks to everyone for answering. It helps to know what i can or should say to them re repairs and prices and why "necessary" questions. Information/knowledge is power, so thank you.~kevg3