This method is the easiest and fastest and less troubling way to bleed clutch master cylinder, I have a 1994 Mazda B2300, 1st fill reservoir to the top with brake fluid after taking out the black rubber piece inside.
2nd remove rod from clutch pedal, there are 4 tiny plastic tabs holding it on the pedal so take a small pocket screwdriver and lightly move the tabs up while pushing on rod outward away from attachment point, then move to next tab and push up on it and it will pop off, it's made of plastic be careful.
3rd there is a white tab that looks like a 2 prong arrow and take that off, be careful it's very fragile plastic too, lay it out of the way so it doesn't get broke.
4th next unplug wiring from the starter enabler, again be careful with the small screw driver on the release tabs either ends, after it unplugged move it out of the way, 5th and on the back where you can't see it right away on the big round switch assembly there is a release tab in the back and again use the small screwdriver to release that tab and pull off and lay aside (A lot of plastic pieces "do not break or you'll be going to a local salvage yard to find them"
6th now you'll have the pedal rod sticking out of the master cylinder and inside you see an internal snap ring and that holds the piston in the cylinder that the rod is attached too, now get your set of internal snap ring pliers and 1st thing is get a thick and thirsty old bath towel and place it so it'll catch and fluid coming out of master cylinder, don't let fluid like I did get into padding and you'll spend a lot of time cleaning it up. (Ps. I tried 90 pins didn't work, tried the straight pins nope, used the 45 degree ones and work perfectly on the snap ring pliers) now remove the internal snap ring and use the pedal rod slowly pull out on the piston and you here a rush of air, then fluid will gush out, slowly put piston back in and reinstall snap ring.
7th now go back to reservoir and fill it to the top again, do it one more time, there should be white lithium grease on the outside of piston for lube, be sure you don't scrap a lot of that off, push on rod and if the piston moves 1/8 inch to 3/16th before you feel resistance and can't push it in with your hand/arm then it bleed, I did it 3 times and Little gravity bleeding to get rest of any remaining air out, just be sure you keep reservoir filled.
8th I put it all back together, It worked for me!!!! And in a couple hours work I have the firmest clutch pedal ever, Woo Hoo!!!!
Another Ps. The redesigned Ford internal slave cylinder from Perfection Performance Proven Brute Power it's using the Ford fuel filter style clip connection and is far superior than the factory designed one, this youtube video shows this awesome slave cylinder and explains why it's great, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RVjEM...eature=related if link doesn't work, just go to youtube and type "removing and servicing of clutch master cylinder to slave cylinder" I got everything from from rockauto.com. All for 199.00 and change with shipping, so for around 35 bucks more than Auto Zone Cheapest clutch kit and there slave cylinder, I got everything shipped all together that was far Superior, Good Luck to all!!!!
Another Ps. the little white round plastic piece that's used to hold the factory male and female connectors together gets damaged or broken in half it can not be bought anywhere by itself, even from dealerships, but the new perfection performance slave cylinder comes with a new one but it's used as a spacer/center now and just keep everthing tight between male and female connectors...
Thanks for posting your method .I had tried going by the book , but nothing worked . I was about to give up when I decided to try your way , and it worked fine . Thanks agian