the knocking noise in the engine is messed up i first noticed the knock when i would turn the steering all the way to the right or left only then it started knocking all the time at idle but if i turn the distributor i can make the knock go away when retarding or make it constant if i advance it but when retarded and driving if i give it a lot of gas it will knock when the truck shifts between low and second when the r.p.m. drops it never did this until the timing gears went and i replaced them and had to remove the oil pan to clean it also had to pull tranny to remove oil pan when i was done it ran good at first then it would not down shift when taking off so i would have to manually shift to low 2 to take off but that has since stopped and the knock started about a week or 2 after
my truck is making a knocking noise on 1995 Ford F-150
by futuretech in Milford, MA on September 16, 2013
2 answers 4 comments
ANSWER by pushrod , September 16, 2013
No way we can hear your engine running! Take it to a mechanic and let him put an ear to it. Based on your post, it's too many possibilities! Any problems when installing cam gear? Did you maybe chip a tooth? GEAR TO GEAR drive, chipped tooth will make a knocking sound!!
ANSWER by globalhelper , September 16, 2013
1st determine where the noise is located. bellhousing area,upper eng or lower eng. pull one plug wire at a time to see if noise goes away.be careful and use plug wire pliers
COMMENT by futuretech , September 16, 2013
thanks guys for the suggestions the noise is def. coming from the bellhousing so looks like i will be pulling the tranny to see if i have a cracked flex plate. unless maybe you have another idea of what it could be? but when i am in park and turning the steering wheel it knocks but if i put it under load there is no knock or if i power brake it there is no knock but like i said when in park it will not knock until i start turning the steering wheel. but it is definitely coming from the bell housing i had my son turn the wheel all the way to the left and pull on it to make it knock while i was under it and that was where the knock was. unless it was the #6 cylinder but i would think it would knock constantly if it was a lower bearing.
COMMENT by pushrod , September 16, 2013
Do like greg suggested, get it to knock then pull off the plug wire to see if knock stops or chnges noticeably, if it does it is most likely a rod bearing. But that don't make sense here either! Start with #-6. Pull wire from dist. cap. Also check the torque converter bolts to be sure they are tight. I assume it's an auto. trans. since you said flexplate. Did the torque converter give you any trouble when putting trans. back in? Ps, turning the steering wheel to full stop just loads the engine a little just like brake torquing does.
COMMENT by futuretech , September 17, 2013
ya that was going to pull the wires before the tranny all ways start with the easiest to the hardest but will get back to you after pulling the wires but the noise is definitely at the bell housing but the converter went back in smoothly locked in just fine and there are no leaks but will pull the wires before the tranny and if the wires don't change anything then i will get a stethoscope to pin point it exact only use a screw driver to the ear so far thanks again guys your awesome!!!!!!
COMMENT by pushrod , September 17, 2013
Cool, that ol screwdriver works pretty good! Yeah, check the basics first. Think back about your work, did i get this or that tight etc... I been doing it for a hell of a long time and still have to do that! Hey, and proud of it too! IF you ever get to a point where you never make a mistake, you're in the wrong business!!! That old 300- IL 6 banger is one tough sob, one of the best and i'm a Chevy man! I don't think it's the engine.