My car shifts ok while driving,but when i come to a stop i feel it shift again. on 2000 Chrysler 300M

car down shifts when i come to a stop

Asked by for the 2000 Chrysler 300M
How many miles ? what service history? ONLY Chrysler ATF in it? Motor mounts been checked? Trans been scanned for DTCs? (may not have MIL on)?
Hi, the mounts were cracked,got that repaired.Over 150,000 miles on it. It was still doing same thing,and seemed to idled too high.Took it back in,they said air coming from somewhere,LORDY.I went back back because later i tried to drive it and gas pedal would get stuck.JUST TOO MUCH.I guess I need to just take it to dealer.Just cost soooooo much.Now I'm scared to dive it .Thank for your response.
If they said you have air leaking somewhere you have got a vacuum leak somewhere get a can of wd40 or anything similar and spray around all vacuum hoses if idle goes down you have found your leak
did you find an answer. Mine doing the same thing.
3 more answers , 2 more comments
its supposed to down shift when you slow down
LOL,i know it's suppose to down shift.What I'm saying is that it's like a hard down shift.I can feel and hear it kind of revve(hope i spelled right)up and then it shifts,that not normal operation.It started doing this about 3 days ago
possible normal operation
Umm no what I'm experiencing is not normal.The engine will revve up then I feel it shift.It hasn't always done that.
OK, so to recap, your car seems to downshift hard when decelerating, and the dealer says you have a vacuum leak, and sometimes your pedal sticks. You've got a broken motor mount that you had fixed.
Some of these are probably unrelated to the others.

First, make sure your throttle cables and throttle body are all properly connected and lubed very well with something like lithium grease. Make sure there's nothing near the pedal or on the throttle end of the cable that could be causing it to stick.

Then, get a Chilton's or Haynes manual and check the following:
A) Transmission fluid level. Use only Chrysler ATF +4 fluid in the transmission. If it's been a while since your last servicing (more than two years), I'd get a fluid and filter replacement. Don't get a power flush; those can destroy your transmission.
B) Make sure that your shift linkages/points are adjusted properly.

After that, get a propane bottle and a probe, and find and fix your vacuum leak. Your transmission can be easily affected by engine performance, so if there are any other codes popping up or engine performance issues happening, get them fixed.

Once you've done all of the above (and ONLY once you've done all ove the above), THEN you've isolated that it's actually a transmission problem. That's when I'd go to a shop if you don't feel confident to diagnose and/or repair the problem yourself. If you feel up to it, ATSG (Automatic Transmission Service Group) probably has a manual that can help you diagnose the rest of the way and repair the transmission.