34
questions

I have a 1994 Mazda DX 1.8. One day while driving car was hesitating off and on from a stop. After a while quit hesitating. Then, after parking and restarting, went for a drive and the car just stopped - died and would not start.
After towing home and testing, there was NO spark, replaced coil - no spark, replaced coil again - no spark, replaced distributor - no spark, replaced TPS, no spark. Just double-checked, gets juice to positive side of coil and juice to positive of distributor. Still NO spark. Tried jumping ten and ground in diagnosis module to get codes, didn't seem to work. (Engine light does NOT come on when ignition is in the ON position) I am stumped. What in the world could it be??

Have changed:

the Coil (Twice, new one)

the TPS (new)

the main relay (new)

the ECU (twice, used)

the distributor with cap and rotor (new).

My 1994 Mazda Protege with 120,000 miles stalls during warm-up. About 3 minutes after starting cold it will
stall several times. It runs OK once completely warm (after about 6 minutes of run time). Asking for
help to solve this issue.

I checked the fuel pump for correct pressure as well as the pressure regulator, both are OK.
The Idle air control valve is OK as well as the coolent temperature sensor and Mass air flow meter.
I replaced the throttle body gasket and added gumout fuel injector cleaner to the tank and replaced the spark plugs,
air filter and ignition wires. I would appreciate any help!!

My 1994 Mazda Protege with 120,000 miles stalls during warm-up. About 3 minutes after starting cold it will
stall several times. It runs OK once completely warm (after about 6 minutes of run time). Asking for
help to solve this issue.

I checked the fuel pump for correct pressure as well as the pressure regulator, both are OK.
The Idle air control valve is OK as well as the coolent temperature sensor and Mass air flow meter.
I replaced the throttle body gasket and added gumout fuel injector cleaner to the tank and replaced the spark plugs,
air filter and ignition wires. I would appreciate any help!!

My 1994 Mazda Protege with 120,000 miles stalls during warm-up. About 3 minutes after starting cold it will
stall several times. It runs OK once completely warm (after about 6 minutes of run time). Asking for
help to solve this issue.

I checked the fuel pump for correct pressure as well as the pressure regulator, both are OK.
The Idle air control valve is OK as well as the coolent temperature sensor and Mass air flow meter.
I replaced the throttle body gasket and added gumout fuel injector cleaner to the tank and replaced the spark plugs,
air filter and ignition wires. I would appreciate any help!!

In the morning I start the car up and let it idle. but the Red brake light comes on and I have a problem shifting the automatic transmission. This red light is the one that comes on when the emergency brake is engaged. After a couple of minutes I turn off the car restart the car and finally the automatic shift works. I drive away and 15 minutes and 8 miles later the red light does out and everything is fine. I am perplexed to say the least

my horn goes off randomly through out the day. It goes off when Im driving and sometimes even when it is parked. The only way to stop it is to bang on the steering wheel. This morning it went off and I banged on the steering wheel and a piece came out from under the steering wheel cover. Its a flat piece of metal light gold and it had a king of D shape. Does any one know what this piece is and how to solve this problem? Thank you!


my 1994 mazda protege is leaking brake fluid

I need a transmission for my 1994 Mazda Protege' LX and i was wondering if there is any difference between a 1994 and a 1995 transmission in the mazda protege LX.

When the gas gauge reading is above 3/4 of a tank, it reflects an accurate reading of the amount of gas present. But once the gauge reaches aroung 3/4 of a tank, the gauge needle drops straight to "E". It sometimes teaders between 1/2 tank and "E" but after a time will eventually remain on "E". I've experimented a couple of times by filling up the tank when this happens. It would only take 3-5 gallons to fill it back up. What could cause this to happen. Could it be the fuel pump. Mainly in the morning when I start the car, quite often I smell a strong gas odor. A mechanic told me that starting it up fist thing in the morning and smelling gas would not be unusual. But in my mind, the smell is too strong!! What could be the problem?

My car has been having issues starting up. I had recently bought a new battery and a new cable terminal since the battery was about 2 years old and the terminal was cracked therefore, giving me trouble starting, or so I thought. I had went to pepboys because I had a flat tire and once they were done my car did not want to turn on. They checked the battery and they told me the battery is drained and something must be draining the battery since its brand new. They gave me a jump start and I went on my way home. In about a mile away the car started stalling and it finally shut off. I bought a new battery the day after and the car was running fine until a couple days from today the battery made the car shut off again. Is this a possible alternator issue? or can it be something else because both my timing belt and my alternator belt are extremely cracked and I dont hear the squeaky noise anymore.

When i put gas in there is a really strong gas smell throughout the car pretty much until it is near empty, and for some reason the gas doesnt last as long as it should. But there is no leak in the tank. Could it be the fuel filter? I just bought the car from a friend and he cant remember last time it was changed.

1994 Mazda Protege. The engine cranks but won't start. This has happened 2 times in last week. Not the battery. I have a mechanic who says he can't do any diagnosis unless it won't start for him.

drive train change over

Hello,

I drive a 5-speed 1994 Mazda Protege that has, frankly, seen better days. I now have a major oil leak which is dangerous and need to have the car repaired. My mechanic is pretty trustworthy, and has quoted me $1,000 to replace the valve cover gasket, the oil pan gasket, and the front engine seal (plus regular 140,000-mile maintenance) for the car. Does this sound too high? Is it worth it to do this repair on a car this old? The engine is still running well and generally, the car drives okay.

At certian points of a turn there is a distictive clunk, it sounds-like it under the drivers side floor. At first, I thought it was the CV joints, but I listened more carefully. It was like a stick hitting the floor. I looked under the car and noticed a a connection from the suspension to the car body's floor. Could it be some sort of bushing located ther?