57
questions

Then when I shut off car they all go off but comes back on , on down the road, also loud roaring sound while driving and car pulls to the right real bad. Tires look good not that old, air in them is 32. Auto shop can't find the problem. No engine light comes on..??

Mazda6 is there any call backs in ns for this car.I just recently took mine to the garage and have to have all lines fixed baring in the front and more....

Change my oil first time. Couldnt get off oil filter. So I just left it alone. 3000 to 4000miles later I was going to change oil. But before had a chance. I was driving. Next thing car started knocking every time I would get it gas. The knocking again. Drove 5 miles home n then parked it ever since.

Any time I fill my tank I have a hard time getting the car started

I was told my CAR needs a new motor.I can't drive it anywhere to have it even looked at.How much does a new motor cost ?

it has been sitting for 2 years needs all new brake pads rotors front and back which i purchased i also purchased an 02 sesor need 3 new/used tires and maybe some exsust work not super load but it also ticks and when i step on the gas it sounds very mnuffled can you please give me a dignoses and a ball park price forthe labor on ther brake job?thanks forthe help

2006 Mazda 6 i
Car only starts in neutral.
The light around the parking symbol "P" on dashboard does not light up.
I had the neutral safety switch replaced with a dealership part.
I'm not sure what could be the problem?

If let idle smooth out before put into gear runs fine. If drive before smooths out drops OBD code P0604 (misfire cyl 4). Checked all 3 available cyl (4,5,6) and compression is good at 160, plugs are new and resistance is same for all 3 so don't think I have a bad plug or coil. I have switched plugs/coils and get same code/same cyl.

If restart later with engine still warm no problem, idle is smooth, can drive immediately. I have also replaced dirty air filter, and cleaned throttle body and MAV sensor. Vacuum lines look fine, and no changes when spray with carb cleaner with engine at idle. No change noticed if pull vacuum line off EGR. I also have run seafoam and marval mystery oil at high concentration for 75 miles thru gas to see if injectors sticking. No noticeable difference. Looking for suggestions.

i drove my car to a few places with no problems. stopped at a store and shut it off. went in to grab a coffee and went back out to leave. car was off for about 15 minutes. went to start it but when i turned the key my gauges started bouncing around and lights would flicker. car will not start. checked my battery and it tested fine also checked wires and fuses. any idea what could be wrong?

I am trying to remove the valve cover but can not figure out how to remove the wire housing that runs across the left side of the valve cover (the camshaft sensor wires also run through this housing.). However, there's a deep plastic piece that is very small and deep with a bolt through it and where the valve cover meets the head it looks as if the bolt has been welded. I need to remove the valve cover but can not get the two bolts on each side of the wiring housing. How can I remove those bolts?

Here is the problem with my Mazda 6 2006.

I start the car and drive for about 30 minutes. When I get back home and turn the car off, and try to start the car right back up its ok.

If I wait 30 minutes and try to start the car again, the car will not to start. Its wants to turn over as the car does when it runs but it sputters and doesn't start.........If I wait an hour, the car starts right up again and rungs great.

The car runs fine while I am driving for up to 15 minutes or 20 minutes. It seems to happen after the cars runs for at least thirty minutes and will not start again for about an hour later.

Today, I just started to heard the fuel pump when I turn the ignition into the on position.