The battery was replaced a few days prior to the incident. It started up as a rough idle and then it would not crank any more. The battery is good because all lights etc come on

My car has had loss of power. Biggest issue> My hazard light comes on spontaneously & locks breaks. I pull car over. It shakes back & forth and I'm unable to drive, as if the breaks have locked on me. So, I turn car off and then back on and problem goes away for the day, but never fails to happen the next day or two. Its been occurring more lately. I took it to a mechanic & they said it was defiantly the throttle body.

I bought it as a second hand car dealers in Japan. The car dealer told me the O2 need to be changed. The day it was serviced by Mazda Amtec, the check light disappears. But after driving for less than a kilometer it reappears again. The car perfomance is so good as I was driving it for almost three months. I sent it back to Amtec Mazda and they told me to change the oxygen sensors, the catalytic converter must be changed as well. So Im now confused. So what is the real problem now. There are no codes shown on the dashboard. I just noticed in the morning when you start it produces a white smoke from the exhaust pipe and it disappears after some few minutes when the engine is running.

The guy that replaced my alternator brother the plug/connector that goes into the alternator. He got some wires and spliced them did it that way. Could this be why the battery light is coming on still?

I own a 2003 2.3L European JMZGG 166HP Hatchback Mazda 6. My engine's nikasil coating is damaged after putting chrome plated piston rings in 1000 miles. I'm willing to avoid this problematic engine with its balancing shaft preventing from proper oiling the middle cylinders. I would like to put a regular 2.0 liter engine as they seem to last longer and are affordable. The gearboxes are the same. I know I have to swap both the engine and the computers, but what about the wire harness. Will it fit? My engine has vvt and uses spark plugs. The new 2.0L mazda engines (After 2006 including I think) use ignition coil and have vvt. Can somebody tell me if I can swap an engine from 2.0 with ECU, which year this car should be (pre or after 2006) in order to keep my stock wire harness.

The engine looks like this:

Problems which includes; repairs, fuel consumption

This shop i went to said it would be 870 to 900 bucks...is that a rip off?

Yesterday, I started it and turn it off, started it and turned it off, tryed to restart it again but it wouldn't. The gauges began to quiver and flutter and go up and down for a minute or so. After that, they went back to normal and the car started right up. The battery is a new NAPA Legend. The car never needs to be jumped in order to get it to start. The car also stalled at a traffic light the other day but started right back up when I turned it over. The car acts like this almost every use.

only code po303 #3 can shut off in gear usaly fix it not always i am broke down on road now if somebody can tell me what to do to get it going home to a permanet fix

I just got this car, and I chose the 4cyl. because it's NOT the timing chain rattling, oil-leaking v-6...however every where I look at forums and personal posts, the shitty front wheel bearings are mentioned. Your website is head and shoulders above most other sites, I was wondering about the omission, Thanx.

and the codes po340 and po128 keep returning. the engine surges a little and at hwy miles mph 65 to 70 the rpms go crazy but nothing major drivibility wise. can someone please help???

While driving the it felt like it wasnt getting any gas and would shake and felt boggled down till I hit second gear. Had engine light code read and said it was spark plugs. Replaced them and engine light went off. Later driving it came back on an car was doing the same thing again. Had engine codes read again and they code couldnt pin point the problem. Read on other sites possible coil pack, fuel injector, etc. Does anyone have any clue as to what the problem is? Also it has 155k miles. Ive replaced the battery 4 times, altinator 4 times, pcv valve, and intake manifold all within the last 2 years. Please HELP!

No code is showing up.I changed mass air sensor.It will idle but when you put in drive it starts missing and it will go about 10mph and when you try to give it gas it just misses and sputters.

the pulsation occurs when applying brakes to stop and the check engine light is on or it blinks on and off.