Driving home today the AT warning light came on. The car felt like it got jerked. No noise it just felt odd. Light wasn't on for long but it kept happening. I pulled over turned off engine. When I tuned car back on put it in drive, light to signal in drive, neutral or reverse didn't come on. The AT light was back on but now the check engine and TCS/DCS Indicator lights were on too. I made it home. Can I drive the car? On average what is the cost for repair? AT Automatic transaxle is what my manual says

My brother replaced my battery and there was a spark and when the new battery was replaced my radio and in car lights won't come on

The discoloration is like the rainbow you see in soap bubbles, and it's only on some of the car. In the fall when leaves weren't cleaned off and left on too long, there are impressions from the leaves with the same discoloration on some parts. Not sure how it happened, and a car wash doesn't clean it. What is this and what can I do?

I have a 2010 Mazda 3 2.0 standard the car starts, runs, and goes in to hear properly but when I prees the gas pedal nothing happens no rev up no acceleration nothing

This is my first Mazda, and may be my last. I have been driving a stick for over 40 years on many different model cars. This is the first time I need to replace this. I do not understand why it is so expensive. I tried calling the Mazda customer service, they were no help. They just kept repeating "normal wear and tear", almost like a robot. Does anyone have any idea why it is so expensive and why with only 54,000 miles would I need to replace one?

Started with putting it in gear and indicator light not lighting up. I felt a small slip in the trany while driving @ 40mph, lights came on. Brought it to a shop and waiting for diagnostic. I am wondering what could be some mainstream causes and a ball park of the costs.

When I start my car my Cruise light is on. Not sure if this is the beginning of a problem or if the sub-zero temps have anything to do with it.

The sounds to warn me my lights are on and the blinker sound still work, the GPS, radio and CD player have no sound though it turns on.

I was driving and hit a pothole on right front side and suddenly a screaming squel came from front drivers wheel.never before had I heard anything like this. Replaced pads n rotors bout 5 months can't be that Cuz was fine. But what could it be? Then the(!) Light came flashing on. What could this be?? PLS help too afraid to drive it to shop!!

My car will stall or have a 'delayed reaction' when I come to a stop or slow down from a higher speed and then try to gently accelerate again. It will 'jult' forward after the delay like there might be something wrong with the transmission. Car is at 72,000 miles, I drive it about 40 miles a day in stop and go traffic. Oil was changed about two months ago, and it looks fine.

Ticking noise when car is idling, as well as when I accelerate…but not when I'm coasting. My car now has 72,ooo miles on it, and this started probably about 6 months ago. My boyfriend thinks it might be a worn timing belt, but I've also been reading that it may be a faulty valve in association twith the intake manifold? Trying to find out if it's dangerous to drive with this noise, or if it's as simple as replacing the timing belt.

the car is an automatic and this does not happen all the time. why does the gears lock-up

What causes a vehicle to have sluggish power and mpg loss? Engine light is not on.

I have pinging in my Mazda. The sound is not unlike a diesel engine, though not even close to as loud.

I read your article on Improper Combustion Process. I have taken my car to the Dealer and they said this was normal for high performance engines. I only have 44k miles. The pinging was just noticeable in 5th gear. Now it's getting louder and more noticeable in all gears when accelerating and when low RPM for the individual gears while moderate acceleration, like going up a small hill.

1. I have put in premium gas in my car to see if that would help. It did not.
2. I have taken off the air filter on the car and run it to see if it would help. It did not.
3. I have put in a fuel injection cleaner. It did not help.
4. I was going to remove my plugs and check them for gunk or corrosion, but I could not get them out of the small hole they are in. I need a special thinner tool than my sockets.

I can't believe this is normal for cars. I would not buy a used one doing this.

* The dealer said I can take it to a 'hack'/performance guy and they could modify the computer to burn differently, but it would void the extended warranty I have.
* He also said I can try running gas without ethanol in it. Is not my running 92 Octane in it basically the same?
* I read that using a slightly higher viscosity Oil might help. Any suggestions on that?
* Is there anything else I can do with reference to your Improper Combustion Process article that might help, like running a hotter spark plug?

Is there anything I can do or go back to the dealer with to help get rid of the pinging. It's annoying, though not very loud. I don't want the engine to be further ruined if I can.

Thanks for you suggestions