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no longer avail. will a ford ranger p/n fit and if so what p/n . taking apart is a big job so need correct info. not interested in whole inst. cluster. Dealers no help. Need Mech. who has dealt with this before and taken apart cluster to change gauge.

Where is the valve location to see if it is functioning properly. I have looked for one and can't find anything. I also don't know what it would look like....PLease help

dual sport, has oil leak top of oil filter

How do remove dashboard/step by step?

Just replaced front left wheel bearings for a previous noise (grinding like) problem... it fixed it for a week (150 miles), now it's making a humming noise... it gets loudest at 40 MPH...
Could it be a cheap after-market brand bearing causing it? made in China, for O'Reilly's Parts Store...

Worked last week. Now 4 wheel dash light will not come on and no 4 wheel

Starts easily after initial start No check eng light

there is no door key with the truck.the only way to get into the locked truck is with the electronic door fob. did this vehicle come with a door key separate from the ignition key. the ignition key does not work in the doors. i would like the option of unlocking the vehicle manually in case the fob malfunctions. thank you for your time.it also has an alarm installed on it.

I just received my truck back after getting a new engine and transmission. The fob was not working, but the shop said that it just needs to be reprogrammed by putting the key in the ignition and turning it on and off 8 times within 10 seconds, leaving it on run, then pressing the lock button on the remote within 20 seconds, then turning the ignition off. Well, I tried it, and it didn't work. I locked the truck and went to bed. This morning I went to unlock it with the key, and it wouldn't unlock! What do I do?

I drove my truck to the gym and when it was time to go I put the key in the ignition and turned it. Nothing happened I pressed the clutch all the way to the floor and then I tried again. Nothing. Long story short I took it to Mazda they told me it was the PATS module and told me it could cost anywhere from 700 to 1200$ To fix it. I want to know has anyone else ran into this problem?

Starts fine, runs smooth only hesitates at under 45 mph or like in 4th gear or overdrive, other than that runs fine

I tried to change the crankshaft synchronizer and the camshaft positioning sensor and it still squeaks the same if not a little more . think it might be the idler pulley or possibly but hoping not my harmonic balancer

I was told it was the crankshaft synchronizer and the CPS but everything I have looked up says the noise would be coming from the back of the motor if it was that. I think the noise is coming from some where i the front center of the motor. it will only do it when truck is in neutral when clutch is let out in first the noise will go away until the clutch is pushed back in but it does not do it all the time and sometimes rarely at all the noise is not constant it does it on and off