1994 Mazda B2300 QuestionsRefine by vehicle
Original starter went out approx 9 months ago 1st replacement starter lasted 7 months and 2nd replacement starter lasted 2 months both had cracked off housings that supports the end bearing of the shaft. I will say that the original starter end housing looked a little more beefed up than the replacement.
800-900$ seems steep for a 1994 B2300. Anybody?
I just bought this thing the other day and just replaced the freeze plug in front of the transmission. While driving it home I started noticing that it has a hard time taking off (petal must be floored), but when its started to move it seems to straighten up. Also there is some raddeling sound under the cab of the truck. When Idle it seems to shake real bad, kinda makes me worried
One possibility is a loose connection somewhere, but I haven't found anything yet. Lights sometimes go on, but other times, not. If the lights are on, it acts like a battery drain from a weak battery when I turn the ignition or some other electrical source. However, battery tests as good, and doesn't seem to show any drain when turning the ignition according to my multimeter.
Where is the fuel filter located on a 1994 Mazda B2300 pickup?
Okay, heres the deal, I own a mazda b2300 and when I start it up it runs for about 15 seconds perfectly and then after the pressure builds up and it really starts running, it will idle up and down and threaten to stall out it runs extremely rough but this problem only happens when it is idling. I havent really tried anything yet cuz I dont wwanna put a ton of money into it without knowing if its gonna help, What I have done I guess is a full tune up but other than that I havent done much.
replaceing the clutch assembly, parts indicate a bearing attached to the transmission useing a fluid to operate. how do I remove the bearing properly, it has two bolts and a fluid cable.
got a 1994 b2300 mazda truck turns over wont start, changed battery, plugs, wires, starter, ignition module, fuel pump, fuel filter, had entire electrical checked at shop came back fine. have paid out almost a grand and it still does not start. my mechanic has given up on it and towed it back can someone please help
after engine warms up ( 30 seconds) check engine light comes on AND idle drops down to 350 rpms at the exact same moment . these conditions remain thoughout the driving trip.
I have taken the fuel lines off and repaired them and replaced the lines. I hope that I have connected them back correctly. Therefore I am try to see if I am getting fuel to the engine.
can anyone tell me where the tsu is located?????
how do i disconnect the door chime?
can you tell me the location of tsu
I changed the fruel pump and sending unit and also the gauge on the dash but still furl gauge not working?
A few weeks ago, my truck broke down. I thought it had jumped time, but it was the timing belt and waterpump that needed replaced. At the same time, I had a new thermostat put in and a oil change/filter done. I noticed that my heat wasn't working, so I took it in and had the radiator and cooling system flushed. It ended up being flushed 3 times. The heat was only barely working, so I told them to try another thermostat. Well the one that was put in first, was put in crooked without gasket sealer. So it warped the thermostat and the housing. A new thermostat was put in, it took 2 gaskets to get it to seal good. A few days later, my check engine light came while I was driving 35-40 mph. I only had a mile left to my destination. The first thing I did was pop the hood and start checking fluids. Well, when I got to the oil, the stick was creamy white. Of couse the first thing that came to my mind, was that I blew my headgasket. Is it possible that fluids could be leaking from any other place, like the waterpump area or such. I was wondering this since the first person that put in the thermostat crooked also put in the waterpump.