Occasionally when I try to accelerate in the 30-40 range the car chokes a bit then moves on. When I get to the next light it stalls. I can turn everything off & restart it, but it's very scary. I'm not sure what to do, my mechanic can't replicate the problem despite driving it for a week so no work has been done on it.
In the morning the car won't stay idoling unless I hold the gas pedal to 2,000 RPMs. Now when driving down the road it cuts out and stalls out
Problem: vehicle would MOT Start easily, sometimes taking up to 25 minutes. On 6/17/2014, client took vehicle to ADVANCE AUTO to have vehicle checked by use of the " CODE METER", revealed IGNITION COIL FAILURE: Check Engine Light on, causing NEED for 6/19/3014 Taken to BJ's AUTO (garage) REMEDY TUNE-UP ?? Bought NEW IGNITION COIL (Part)@ $59.99,6 NEW TITANIUM SPARK PLUGS @ $4.99 ea. =$29.94 Total , plus Labor Total = $96.00 (Customer supplied new Parts )see AUTOZONE RECEIPT) = Total$89.93 Check ENGINE LIGHT STILL ON!! Car drove for 15 Minutes and would NOT start again. Owner had vehicle TOWED to garage (BJ's) Mechanic found :
CAR NEEDED a FUEL PUMP (new) $129.99 and a: (new) FUEL FILTER $16.99 (part) PARTS Total= $146.98, and LABOR totals $122.00 , Plus card fee $2.00 $283.83
Within 1 1/2 Day,I FOUND the SAME PROBLEM as BEFORE these REPAIRS were made. Took vehicle back to 2 garages, and told CODE METER showed (1) MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR FAILED: and (2) IGNITION SWITCH SIGNAL or IGNITION COIL Failed (which had already BEEN REPLACED NEW).
Monday, 6/30/2014 customer went online and discovered this info here." INFINITI I30, 1999,: PROBLEMS: (1) MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR MAY FAIL, and (2) IGNITION COIL FAILURE (3) Check ENGINE LIGHT FAILURE (remaining on)
All three of these things have happened and is HAPPENING with this vehicle.
check engine lite on all the time, replace idle sensor valve, lite went away, but came back again, the only problem is in the morning, when I start the car, I have to ramp up the throttle for a while. took to dealer, want 1200 to replace the computer and reprogram,
MAF Failure resulting in car hestitation, general loss of power
History: Code P0420 came up after buying car 3 yrs ago at about 90K miles. I replaced the CAT and front O2 Sensor in Bank (1), about $2K for that job. Had to fix failed heated seats and air conditioner beginning of last year. Regular maintenance otherwise.
Several weeks ago, light comes on (Code P0171 and P0174), then rough idle and hesitation/jumping when first starting engine started. (Air & Fuel not mixing cocrectly). Last week, mechanic replaced failing front O2 sensor and MAF Sensor: $700. Car running better, still a little rough on the idle IMHO. A few days later, P0160 Bank (2) Sensor (2) code pops up, Mechanic says ECM needs to be reprogrammed and both rear O2 sensors need to be replaced due to replacing the MAF per Infiniti bulletin, not a recall. $500 more, and only because he is not charging for the labor. Anyone else have this happen? How do I look up this bulletin? Gaaaahh!
when trying passing gear , engine ref up but does not down shift
it has been replaced and has failed again...looking for other causes/ solutions
Payed the dealer too much money...
Car was having trouble staying idle in the morning until warmed up. Was still driveable.Then, at 30 to 40 miles/ hour would jump out of gear even so the drive was in D- had to stop, turn off, and on to drive again. One day all board lights came on and engine shut off while driving on the highway. Had replaced the transmission sensor , the MAF sensor, spark plugs and fuel pump. Mechanic also raised the idle rpm to 700.it was ok for 10k more. Now getting the p430 code for bank 2 . Replaced the precat converter b2 oxygen sensors and CEL still on after confirmed they were out with my torque app. Ordered cat converter to replace in few days. Will check the IAC valve too.
Replaced mass airflow sensor 2 times in the past year. Fortunately it was under warranty, so the second time it was free. Well, two months after that replacement, the same problems are occurring! This thing is becoming a money pit! It needs both front axles, rear struts, front springs and the "Check Engine" light is always on! That's about $2500 needed for a car worth $2000... Thinking of trading it in and getting whatever I can for it!
Similar issues, the mornings are the worst. Check engine light on all the time. Had diagnostic done and came up with code PO-400, whatever that is. Now repair guys says minimum of 300 to remove the throttle body and clear passages then retest. then may have to do EGR valve :(
Car would hesitate when I went to accelerate.
Failed emissions for P0171& P0174 Left and right bank Lean
After resest ok for couple of days and goes off again. Because of this it is not bale to pass the smog test
Check Engine light was going off and on; they replaced the Mass Air Flow sensor and was charged to reprogram. Don't know if reprogramming was necessary. Now our alarm is going off every half hour and we are
back in the shop again for a different sensor issue.
engine lite comes on car stalls etc etc. had one sensor replaced 6 months ago, now this one went out.
Mass air flow sensor failed --expensive repair --CHeck engine light came on wiht clogged EGR as well--This should be a recal wiht re-imbursement to the owners fo rthese obvious defects-
I've had three sensors go out on me in less than two weeks. the first two cost 700 dollars and the map sensor is gonna cost at least another couple hundred. This car is expensive as hell. Beware if you are thinking about buying it or if you currently own it.