Does anyone know the bolt tightening torque for the main bearings both the large cap bolts and the smaller block bolts
o Install crankshaft. Do not rotate it until intermediate section is tightly in place.
o Install intermediate section.
o Tighten intermediate section and crankshaft bolts in 5 stages in sequence from the center towards ends. Complete each stage before starting the next.
Skip 8 mm and 7 mm bolts until stages 3 and 4.
1st Stage: Tighten all 10 mm bolts to 20 Nm (15 ft lb)
2nd Stage: Tighten 10 mm bolts to 45 Nm (33 ft lb)
3rd Stage: Tighten 8 mm bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft lb)
4th Stage: Tighten 7 mm bolts to 17 Nm (13 ft lb)
5th Stage: Finally, tighten 10 mm bolts through 90°
Connection rod bearing caps:
* Crankshaft must not rotate until all connecting rods/bearing caps have been tightened.
* Bearing shells may change position.
* Check that markings on crankshaft and bearing caps line up.
* Use new oiled bolts.
* Tighten them in two stages: 1st Stage: 20 Nm (15 ft lb)
2nd Stage: Turn through 90°
* Check that connecting rods are free to move laterally.
I hope it helps.
That was what I needed. Our local Volvo guy couldn't even give me the torque settings
Colin, you are very welcome!
May I ask if you are a technician?
Yes, I just work on European cars, but my speciality is K & KE jetronic fuel injection
I thought so. The above job is not really for a weekend mechanic.
K and Ke jets? You aren't a young tech than : )
If you ever have some time just chime in, you can always share your professional opinion.
There are many good (and some not so good) questions here waiting for an answer.
Before I forget: you might know about the anaerobic sealant between the block and oil pan and between the lower and upper cylinder head covers. I have seen people who used RTV silicone...
Anyway, pleasure to meet you-even through the net.
Been in the trade 35 years, and still enjoy working on cars, some of the clients are a pain in the ...
I am using a spray-on Hylomar between the block and the main bearing carrier, and then the sump too. This gives a very fine, even cover and I find usually works well
I haven't use Hylomar before, but I heard and read good things about it. I use to use a small paint roller to apply the Anaerobic sealer evenly.
I saw your last post and you seem pretty knowledgeable. Would you happen to know the specs for torquing the connecting rods in the volvo v70 2.4 turbo. thanks\
If you post an e-mail I can send you the whole engine torque specs.
There are 2 kind of conn. rod cap and the torque is different. In the torque chart it will explain exactly.
Hey you think you might be able to tell me the torque specs on the head bolts for a 98 v70 volvo?
Which engine? Turbo, non-turbo??
Zee, I need some more help please.
This time it is for camshaft timing. I have a Volvo v70XC with a B5254T engine.
Someone undid the exhaust camshaft gear off the camshaft without marking it first. There is no master spline or keyway to give any clue to the camshaft position. And the 3 bolts that hold the gear on pass through elongated holes and so there is a further amount of room for error/correction.
Can you help me with the procedure for setting up the camshafts correctly?
Unfortunately to set the timing correctly you need to use the Volvo cam - crank lock tool set, which mounts to the back of the cam shaft.
There should be a mark on the outer edge of the cam gear, which is hand marked on the assembly line after the cams installed and locked correctly. Note, It's not the TDC!I
If the intake cam gear was not removed, nor turned there is a good chance you can aligned the exhaust cam gear based on the position of the intake cam.
You didn't tell me the year of the Volvo, The engine is the same, but the cam's are marked in a different position, but they are mirrored images. There are 2 possibilities: The marks are at 12 o'clock position or the E at 2 o'clock the intake is at 10 o'clock positions.
So if the cams where not turned, it could be set back to the correct position, based on the other gear's mark. Again, the marks are not very visible, but they are there, they looks like someone marked/scratched the gears with a sharp pin.
Let me know if you can locate the marks.
1998, an early one.
Both cams were removed but on the exhaust cam the gear was removed from the cam. I can see the timing marks to align the gears to the engine cover, exhaust lines up at 1 o'clock, the inlet at 11 o'clock. But, the exhaust cam can bolt onto the gear in 3 different positions, and then the gear can be rotated through the elongated slots by probably 15 degrees.
Based on the alignment of the inlet, No 1 piston at TDC, inlet valves closed, cam lobes at 11 o'clock to the cam followers, can I work out the alignment of the exhaust cam, or can I get the specs on when exhaust valves open (valve timing) and I can work it out from a degree wheel
If they where removed the only way to align them correctly is with the Volvo cam lock tool. It will lock the cams together at the back and you just need to install the gears to match the marks at the front. I have a picture (it isn't so great, but will give you an idea, you can even see the cams alignment a bit) that I can send you. Just post an e-mail.
I checked all my Volvo manual and they don't list the opening/closing degrees, I guess they want you to use the aligner tools. If you have a good relationship with the local dealership or perhaps any Volvo spec. shop you can borrow one.
Good morning Zee,
My email is firstname.lastname@example.org
I can't get the Volvo cam lock tool, our local dealer isn't that friendly. But, on the back ends of the cam are slots. I imagine that the Volvo tool fits into the slots and aligns the cams together, then you bolt on the gears at the correct alignment. So, the slots, are they horizontal? In what way do they align to each other? That would be my easiest way to get it right.