Lincoln Aviator Reviews
Lincoln Aviator Reviews and Owner Comments
I bought my 2003 Lincoln Aviator new and it still drives perfect with almost 200,000 miles on it. I haven't made any repairs in 12 years except replaced the radiator once . It's been a great car and still is
I purchased my 2003 Aviator "Kittyhawk edition" brand new. I love the looks of the vehicle and overall have had great service from the Lincoln. I just installed a new Ford replacement engine to replace the original which almost made it to 200,000 (missed by only a few miles). The only "issues" I have had with the vehicle are transmission (second replacement), Ford actually has a "kit" for the transmission to repear what appears to be a common problem with these transmissions. I just replaced mine with a new unit from Ford. Had the stifter issue (a recall) that was fixed by dealer. Front power seat issue that has since been fixed, and the door seals need attention. I also have the common crack in the plastic panel below the rear window. I have taken care of my Kittyhawk and people are surprised when they learn it's a 2003, as it still looks great. Overall I would have to rate the Aviator as above average..afterall I did get close to 200,000 out of the engine...that's not bad at all...
can not find where the transfer case control module on my 2004 Lincoln aviator. I have looked every where. does any one know where it is on this car. I need it fixed within this week
Same as others people's woes I have just read....not even turned 100K miles and transmission is on the fritz. I bought it with 62K miles. The tires sensors on the tires had to be replaced and now the light panel up top has loosened away from the roof. Also, there is a funny sound coming from the enghine area that sounds like loose metal is running through it. TOTAL PIECE OF CRAP! Now I am stuck with 2 more years on a car payment for a car I can't drive until repaired.
Purchased this car one year ago with high mileage but, new engine and transmission already? Had a love affair with it for 10 months then all h-ll broke loose. First new radiator at 1,200.00 Now everytime I pull up to a stop sign or come to a quick stop in heavy traffic it dies and takes about 5-10 retrys to get started again. You can literaly see the RPM's jumping from 0-3,000 while I am driving down the road....I can not afford another 1,000.00 repair, I mean the whole reason I saved up (as a single mom in school) for a year was so I could finally drive what I thought was one of the nicest cars on the road (even if it was 8.5 years old it was still the nicest car I ever owned) and I just knew it would be reliable....Well Lincoln/Ford I guess the joke is on me right. I would NOT recommend this brand of vehicle to anyone as of right now!!!!
POS!!! I bought mine in 2006 with 30 k miles. Changed the oil every 3000 miles. That car was babied and garage kept. My husband spent thousands fixing it through the 5 years we owned it. On the 3rd, YES 3rd transmission and thousands in other repair costs my husband wanted to take it to the street pour gas on it and watch it burn, but I sold it for $2500.00 to a mechanic. DO NOT BUY THIS CAR!!! DO LET THE INTERIOR FOOL YOU, ITS A POS!!!
I own a 2005 Aviator. I am hoping that someone can help me identify an issue I am having. My Aviator runs wonderful if the temperature outside is 60 degress or below. If the temp is over 65 degrees the vehicle tends to sound like it is in a vacuum mode and won't accelerate properly. It will also suck all of my gas when it is over 65 degrees. Please help me to identify the issue. Thanks
Bought my 2003 Aviator used with about 58,000 miles. Love it but wish it got better gas milage. Got expensive when gas prices went up. Long work commute! It is in the shop now for a 3500.00 transmission replacement and a 850.00 attenuator replacement for the rear air conditioner. It's at approx 128,00 miles and I have had no other major problems.
This car is a POS, everything imaginable has gone wrong with it and it still howls like a wolf at 55-60 mph. It makes a different sound from 20-50 mph as it increases in speed. At 5000 miles when i paid $43,000 for this car we had to put a rear end, and 2 coil packs in it. They were under warranty but i was without the car for 4 days. I will, I repeat, I WILL NEVER BUY A FORD PRODUCT AGAIN, even if I have to buy a KIA.
ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON, DO NOT NOTICE ANY DIFFERENCE IN TRUCK, WENT TO AUTOZONE AND PEPBOYS TO DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM, THEIR COMPUTER WAS UNABLE TO DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM, IS THE DEALER THE ONLY COMPANY THAT CAN DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM OR IS THERE A BYPASS?
This has been a fix it car for a while now, the coil units are faulty and I have had 4 replaced so far, 2 at the dealers for warrenty at 72000 miles and 2 more myself at 85000. sun roof pops when opening. Lost a vlave seat on bank 8 , so low compression in cylinder 8, makes for a rough idle now and $2500 or more to fix it. CD player jamed shut wont eject or play anymore.. Lost tranny at 78000, another $2500 to fix. My wife drives this car, it wasnt worth the trade we made for our Dodge van , plus the extra cost of it , wish we still had the van. Poor constructed SUV for 30K.
Fantastic SUV !!!!!!
Only issue we are having with our vehicle is the chk engine light that has been on for over a year, i had the dealer check it out and they did a fuel system cleaning, had a bank 2 O2 sensor replaced and replaced the air filter. I reset the light today and hope it dose'nt come back.
At 85000 had to replace front wheel bearing,at a cost of $356 Brakes replaced at 55000 on front$199 for the life of the car.There is a posibility that the rear Emergency brake pads may be bad,this will be checked out when the wheel bearing is replaced to cover all would be a cost of about $600 total
Nice ride purchased at 85K miles. Now at 93K. Have had to replace rear wheel/hub assembly at $500 cost. Have had to replace right front brake caliper. Engine light/codes report lean in both banks so replacing fuel filter (difficult for do-it-your-selfer on this model due to location) and DPFE sensor (last 65K or so). Also have replaced main drive belt due to deterioration and several of the rubber hoses (PCV and fuel regulator vacuum lines) at intake deteriorated so bad they required replacement (vacuum leak). Lower ball joint on front must be replaced prior to next state inspection. Tire pressure sensors alerted me to tire losing air and was glad to have that info when I located screw in a tire.