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questions

Why would it do that?

bought this vehicle with 176 K mi on it. AS IS. having all kinds of issues. front end differential needs replaced. was told the bearings are wearing. only about 500 mi to go before it is done. does this mean the transmission is also going to have problems? also told the catiliatic convertors and sensors need replaced because of the diagnostic code it is giving. dash board lights dim / brighten- is this a major electrical problem down the road? can you tell me the average mileage for this vehicle. should we keep it or try to get rid of it while we can? the differential and converter and sensor replacements are going to cost $4900. with the 10K we bought it for - we are into it already WAY more than I think we should be and there are still issues like the dashboard.

CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON WHILE TRUCK WAS NOT IN MOTION THEN IT CUT OFF. ONCE I RESTARTED THE ENGINE I HEARD KNOCKING CHECK ENGINE LIGHT BEGAN BLINKING

Problem just started today and I do not see a fuse for this.

The A/C works great (will freeze you in the summer). The heat is mostly luke warm which means you freeze with it set on 85 degrees in colder weather. If I set it on 90 degrees, then the heat works very well, but can only stand it for few minutes on that setting. Then go back to 85 degrees and you freeze again. I ran the ATC self diagnostics and it did not show any codes. The fan motor works well. The modes change properly to blow at each location. The heater control valve under the hood is working (it's hot on both sides of the valve with the heat on, instead of hot on one side and cold on the other side), so I assume that means it's ok. Coolant and Freon are good (a/c will freeze you when it's hot outside). This started about two years ago. It seems like it would most likely be the air mix door actuator, but kind of doesn't make sense because the heat works normal when all the way up on 90 degree. I was told this can be caused: "by a fault with an internal air temp sensor. If you have an air temp sensor that is sensing the interior is hotter than it actually is when you set the heat, anything but 90° it will keep cool like this. When set on 90° this bypasses the temp sensors and it blows full hot no matter what the temperature is inside the vehicle. I have seen this type of fault before and it is usually a temp sensor failure causing this needing replaced". Question is, how do you test the sensor to confirm if it is bad? Or is there another way to be sure?

Just started happening. How hard is it to repair

Is there an inexpensive fix for this?

That was a 2005 Infinity QX56 with the backup camera problem

When camera unplugged, screen black but grid lines still ok. Opened camera and found lots of corrosion but cleaning PC boards didn't help. Where can I obtain new or used OEM backup camera for less than dealer's $600+?

The ignition comes on but the engine just wouldn't respond. Sometimes after a few hours it responds.

It's not the fuses, they are fine.

The independent front knobs work fine so I am able to turn off and or adjust all levels of the front blower but can't seem to control the level of the rear blow from the front dash panel so the rear blower just blows full blast from the time you turn the engine on until you turn the vehicle off. The rear temperature control on the middle console seems to be able to control the temp but still unable to control the level of air coming from the rear blower. Any ideas, ie parts, cost, solutions?

I get error codes P1757 and P1759, do these codes really mean I need a new transmission?

Already put the air pressure right still shows low air