I have been told that I have a dead cylinder, and no one knows what to do or how to fix it? I am looking for some guidence as to what to look for? Or how to fix the problem?
in Fort Wayne, IN
March 30, 2011
"No one knows what to do or how to fix it"???
That's a directory of shops near you...try one of them, they will have a clear direction of what to do.
What needs to be done -- compression check, cylinder leak down check...for starters.
Thanks for your reply, and this is what I got yesterday. They claim that their computer can't find the problem. They say that they did a compression check and their isn't any problem with compression. The place I took it was recommended by more then one dealership in the area.
Sounds like they did what is called a "relative compression" check. This is when the diagnostic tool checks the compression using information from the engine's processor and vehicle sensors.
If you indeed have a "dead cylinder", there is no mistaking it, and it will be an obvious thing that anyone should be able to determine. This is basic mechanical stuff - nothing sophisticated here.
What is the car actually doing?
It is not shifting right sometimes, but other times it shifts fine. The motor seems too be running rough, but I have only driven it a little bit since the light came on. When you put the car in gear, on the dash when the check engine light is flashing? It says "gear box, no cruise control" . With the rough shifting and rough running? Just trying to baby it when I drive it. They just called me again, and are going to have to keep my car until tomorrow. The guy with the "high tech" computer system can't get there today, but he will get there tomorrow? They have had my car since 8:30 Tuesday morning?
First: flashing check engine light is a warning that if you drive the car, you will likely damage your catalytic converter before too long due to excessive fuel getting routed through the exhaust as a result of a misfire situation.
The misfire is the rough running you are experiencing. Again, this could be a coils, spark plugs, open fuel injector dumping fuel in a cylinder, base engine problem like piston or ring issue, cylinder head issue as in a stuck or burnt valve. That about covers nearly all the possible causes of that issue.
"Gear box, no cruise control" -- indicates some sort of separate system fault in which transmission shifting is affected and the cruise control is deactivated. I would suspect perhaps a vehicle speed sensor issue, as it would affect both systems.
Good luck on the technician helping you out. It's unfortunate - yet a reality - that an area like Fort Wayne, Indiana is going to have less possible affluent and skilled technicians familiar with a Jaguar...compared to a large metro area like Chicago or LA or SF...
Thanks for you input, I really appeciate it. I understand the reality of the techs, that is why I took it to a shop that I was told specializes in imports. Not sure how special they are though?
Not sure indeed! Sorry to hear. Make owning a Jag (or BMW or Mercedes or Audi or VW or...) difficult in non-metro areas... Try that directory link in case you're missing another nearby shop.
Well? Still don't have my car! Now I have been told that my 6 cylinder is a 4 cylinder, the 6th cylinder is dead and so is the 3rd one. They found a wire that is broken and think that they might be onto something possitive. They have run a "relative compressiontest" and found the pistons and rings to be in good condition. They also said that the Speed sensor may be an issue as well. You guys are keeping me informed, you rock! Thanks for keeping me informed.
Well? To all the guys that kept me sane, and not going off as to why I had to give up my car for a week! I finally got it back last evening. $350.00 later, they replaced the "mass air flow sensor" and a "coil pack". The shop that I took it to endded up subbing the work out to someone else. This someone else, took my car to his house to analize and fix it? Didn't know that was common practice? Guess that this has been a learning experience.
Glad to know you have the car back. $350 for a MAF and a coil is not a bad deal. Still, it's a shame they had to "sublet" the work to someone at his house?!? Yeah, that's not common practice. In the end, I hope the vehicle is now fixed, and that you have many miles of happy driving.
Thanks for your help and I really appreciate the input. It's been a experience that I don't care to repeat soon.