2004 Hyundai Elantra QuestionsRefine by vehicle
The pressure plate on my transmission is bad and I am replacing the whole transmission. The shop I took it to told me I need to replace the clutch too. The clutch is fairly new and I'd rather not have that extra expense. However when I told the shop that they said that I had to be replaced because it was attached to the pressure plate and a solenoid I would cost more in the end to switch the clutch to the new transmission. Is there any truth to what he is saying or am I being taken.
can i get an estimate
Just bought a used 04 manual transmission Elantra with no issues. After draining the tank of gas and filling it up the first time, it would not start. After 20 attempts, finally got it running. But the tranny would slip -- or even stall -- in low gears intermittently. Like I would drive 100 miles with no problems then BAM it starts again. Got better until I refilled the gas tank. AGAIN, and now worse -- slipping at highway speeds, and stalling while idling, or just stopping at a stop sign. Took it to mechanic, and they ran the diagnostics, and began replacing sensor -- the O2, mass air, crank position, cam sensors... but its still stalling, and now it won't turn over at all. They are baffled, but think it might be the TCM/ ECM. How much should this cost to replace??
Have had RACQ out 3 times, last time was told the crankshaft sensor needed replacing. Have had sensor replaced. Worked for one day then back to not starting, git worse as now my key snapped off and is stuck in the ignition. What could be the issue with my car not starting all the time.
All of these were listed on scanner for check engine light at auto zone. I replaced all listed above and still have check engine light on. Know I'm told by auto zone problems could be P0038/P0136/P2271/P2270 sensor stuck lean stuck rich. Heater circuit high,ignition malfunction,air leak,poor electrical connection and a few others. Any ideas where to start or cause would be appreciated.
the passenger door doesn't work at all it has to be manually opened and locked
I have been told that both front strut mounts on my Elantra are cracked. If I need to replace the strut mounts, wouldn't it also make sense to replace the entire strut assembly as well since I am paying for the labor to remove the struts to access the mounts anyway?
Any advice you can provide is appreciated.
to go up to 4300 RPM's then went back to normal idle then surged again did it each start up thereafter.....started car it started surging put into gear automatic then it started to go then died in gear wheels locked stearing locked too.....it could lead to nasty wreck. then when I got home parked to open garage door and when in gear it started to surge could have gone thru the back of garage dang. then it feels like its loosing power going up amall hills too???????????
The shifter stopped going into park, I have to keep the E-Brake pulled when I kill the car to keep it from rolling because it wont go into Park. The Dashboard Instrument panel shows the correct reading as far as what gear the car is in, but between the seats where the shifter is it is not correct. When it shows Park it is actually in Reverse.
abs sensor s have been cleaned + vehicle has been scanned and the code show B009c
There is no abs on this vehicle
battery light indicator blinks on-off quite several times and stops dead and the dashboard lights and headlights got dim while driving and the air conditioner heater blows dying heat air even if the temperature control setting is set maximum not full blast occurs both on-off for a short time
I have a 4 cyc single exhaust 2004 Hyundai-
I have one 02 sensor on top of the exhaust manifold; another one just below the flange of the exhaust manifold where the exhaust pipe connects to the exhaust manifold.
Have been hearing this chirp for about a month
My camshafts are not like what was talked about earlier. My exhaust cam has clutch assembly on it and there are no marks on it that I can find.