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ANSWER by Visitor , September 19, 2010
Did this today. I had to open the trunk, remove part of the felt lining (closest to the rear near the latch on the trunk lid, and take out all the nuts that hold the tail light assembly on the trunk lid. When you remove the assembly, you will see the access to the bulbs to replace. And all this after spending 2 days prying every which way with screwdrivers. Lucky I didn't damage anything. Hope this helps, Mike.