How do you replace the water pump on a 2005 pontiac sunfire? on 1995 Pontiac Sunfire

The water pump blew and coolant was pouring on the ground.

by in Beverly Hills, CA on August 09, 2010
2 answers
ANSWER by on August 09, 2010
Its about a 1.5 hour job on the .2 Liter engine, the 2.3 L engine is much more involved! There is a company that independent auto repair shops "buy" their information from that offer a very reasonable service to do it yourselvers. You can get a one week subscription or year subscription very cheap. The information is year make and model specific repair procedures, service bulletins, component locations, wiring diagrams ect.... great quality information same as the professionals have ,much better than generic workshop manuals from parts stores, much cheaper than the factory manual try and get an online repair manual subscription.
ANSWER by on August 07, 2015
the waterpump is located if youre looking at it from the front of the car in. youll see the cooling fan/radiator. follow that to the bottom left side. theres a thick black hose, one of the biggest hoses under the hood. it leads back and up and over and right to the engine block. the big solid block of metal in the middle of the hood. its the piece of metal that joins the hose to the block. its not too bad to work on, the alternator/ac compressor/ exhaust line get in the way a little but it honestly takes 10-15 to get off... clean the engine where it was with anything from a brillo pad to carb choke cleaner to gum off to anything metal cleaning... the new pump should have a gasket. if not coat the engine with a little "rtv" its a sealing bond found where you get the new pump. seal up the pump and reattach the hose. ive never had to do mine, i had over heating issues, so i just removed my thermostat. its not an issue or really needed. especially in our pos sunfires/cavs. just means i gotta let it warm up for 5 minutes in the winter which everyone should do anyway. but when you do pull the hose off you lose coolant. and can quickly get air in the block. to solve this issue... when you hook it all back up, pop the coolant cap and start the car. listen for bubbles. keep an eye on the tank itself. dont let it get empty. after awhile it should stabilize. squeeze some of those thick black hoses a few times... (5?) if you still hear gurgling... repeat as necessary. after keep coolant at the fill line. cap it all up. and youre safe. the air will usually work itself out. its just a failsafe method to not worry about it.

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