129
questions

open her up, clean the sludge, add coolant. go on my way, no issues for a week or 2 after. Whats the deal?

very large noise on the dry road every times when I make the left turn sound like (click click click...); don't hear it on the wet road, can you tell me what need to be change? Which side?

best Regards
Johnny

Often when I start my car, it starts and runs fine, then I drive it and a little way down the road, the engine sputters and loses power like it's going to stall, then it comes back to life and is fine for the rest of the trip. It only happens right after starting it and driving a short ways down the road.

I've had the catalytic converter replaced, yet the code still pops up occasionally, and then goes out a few hours later, and doesn't come on again for weeks.

The heat blew cold air even while moving for a long time then randomly started blowing slightly warmer air and proceeded to get cold again. It was about 60 degrees outside when this happened last. The car does NOT ever overheat. I have replaced the water pump about a year ago. The fluids were flushed then. I put a new thermostat in just before getting that work done. I know that the problem can be the Heater Core or an air lock. What else can cause this? I dont want to put more money into solutions that are not helping.

About a year ago my front passenger window just stopped working. I attempted to put it down one day and it was unresponsive. I had never attempted to get this fixed...I had just accepted it for the time. But about a month ago when putting my back driver side window up it just stopped. Right in the middle. Not completely up not completely down...just enough to taunt and infuriate me. Do you know how hot it is when not using a/c in the summer with only one front and one back window down...the back one locked in kid safety...ugh. ANYWAY, I want to fix this myself, however I can get no clear picture from everything I have read. Its the motor, its the regulator, its the master switch, its the rear switches, use the switch from the passenger rear for the broken driver rear to test the motor, then...the switch from the passenger rear wont work on the driver rear window. SERIOUSLY? I checked the fuses and replaced a bad one for the driver right window. The moment I hit the switch it blew the fuse again. removed the rear left window motor. So where should I start? Can anyone tell how they resolved this issue.

This cars transmission when cold shifts nicely and is very responsive (gutsy), but after a brief warm up period all the speeds basically go gutless, and the only speed/gear is in the 2 position. There is also a very loud clunk when you shift it in and out of park, which my customer doesn't hear because the poor young man is deaf. I asked if he felt it and he said yes. He was relieved someone knew what that was. lol. I have heard a lot of relatively bad stuff regarding this transmission, from the college I attend and a transmission shop here in town, ran by a friend of mine. However, my hunch about this transmission running like a bat out of hell until it warms up are these. The fluid smells scorched, and is more of a dark brown than pink. So I am thinking either fluid has lost its viscosity, the filter inside is clogged, or maybe the transmission cooler lines/cooler could be clogged or very restricted. What do you all think? Tim Pueblo Colorado

I had the front mount engine replace couple of months ago, at the Honda local dealer, now when I turn the engine key on, I hear this sound like roughness last 3-4 weeks and now still hear vibration...

Whenever I put the key into the ignition it won't turn at all and the steering wheel isn't locked or anything but still if I turn the steering wheel while trying to turn the key the ignition won't move like it's stuck or something. I have a spare key that isn't programmed to start the car and that one won't even make it turn so I don't think it's the key.

Honda dealership performed multi-point inspection with my 2003 civic ex, just over 100k mileage. I expected problems as there were several concerns. One of them being transmission slipping between 2nd/3rd gears, when going 3K RPMs transmission slips and won't go.

To replace transmission, they quoted:
$5154 if core is usable.
$6354 if core unusable.

I have never heard of transmission core or no core costing over $5k for a 2003 honda civic. Anyone with similar quotes? Or overpriced?

It will usually start again in an hour or so. It turns over well, but fire.

I already changed #4 coil and fuel injector and all spark plugs. The check engine light came off and I drove for 14 miles before it came back on.
I checked compression and tightened all valves. Check engine light came off but the car had some pull back during the test drive (no shaking from the engine) but the check engine light came back on. Ran computer diagnostics which indicated that the multi-misfires on cylinders 1,2, and 4.
I'm thinking that the fuel filter or pump may need to be changed...want to get an outside opinion before investing another $300+ into this fix.

needed 2nd cat/ changed cat light came back/ now changed o2 sensor/
light back on code p0420 cat efficciency bank 1 ??????????
I am out of patience.... wires all look good and no exhaust leaks
exh manifold and first cat was changed last year (was cracked)