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2003 Honda Civic Questions

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I took in my car in January of this year to get the timing belt replaced. I originally got a quote from a local mechanic but ended up having a different problem in addition so I took it to the Honda dealership. They replaced the timing belt, water pump, drive belt and oil seals for $1300 total (WAY more than my local mechanic quoted). Less than 2 months later, my engine stopped and wouldn't start up again. I took it back to my local mechanic who guessed that the timing belt had jumped. I took it back to Honda so they could check their work, and they claimed that the timing belt did jump and needed replacing, but the issue was that the tensioner broke. They claim that they typically don't replace spring tensioners when they do a timing belt job for this kind of 4-cylinder engine so it's very unusual and not something they would normally replace. They also claim that Honda's owner manual doesn't recommend replacing the tensioners. My local mechanic said that tensioners are part of the timing belt kit and normally he would have replaced him. Now Honda wants me to pay $1000 for replacing the tensioner & timing belt even though I just paid $1300 for a new timing belt less than 2 months ago. Plus, the jumping of the belt may have caused additional damage to the engine that they haven't even diagnosed yet.

Who's right, Honda or my local mechanic? And do you think it's worth trying to fight Honda to get them to do the repair for free?

One day, I turned on my wipers to clean of the dirt on my windsheild, but mid cycle they stopped. I moved the lever up and down, didnt do anything. I got out to see in i can move them down, and i did. So now I can move them with my hands left and right. But when I move th elever inside I hear a wizzing noise, adn thats it. The wipers dont electronically move anymore. What could it be? '03 Civic EX 4dr with 107,xxx miles on it.

I have a 03 honda civic EX. This winter my car started to overheat and also would push cold air out of the heater when idle or at a red light but is fine while driving. I brought the car to goodyear and they determined that my radiator was cracked. As I am driving home I realize that they didnt fix the cold air coming out of my heater. They did however fix the overheating issue. I brought it back a week later and they claim the heat is working fine. He said they just topped of my coolant and that an air pocket in the radiator could of been the cause. So whatever they did the second time worked for about 2 days then it was back to pushing out cold air again. So 2 days ago I bring it back for a 3rd time and they do a cooling system flush and I got the same result. On the second day the heat is back to cold unless I am driving. They told me if this flush didnt work that they would have to replace the heater core. Is there a chance they are wrong again or does this sound like a heater core issue?

open her up, clean the sludge, add coolant. go on my way, no issues for a week or 2 after. Whats the deal?

very large noise on the dry road every times when I make the left turn sound like (click click click...); don't hear it on the wet road, can you tell me what need to be change? Which side?

best Regards
Johnny

Often when I start my car, it starts and runs fine, then I drive it and a little way down the road, the engine sputters and loses power like it's going to stall, then it comes back to life and is fine for the rest of the trip. It only happens right after starting it and driving a short ways down the road.

I've had the catalytic converter replaced, yet the code still pops up occasionally, and then goes out a few hours later, and doesn't come on again for weeks.

The heat blew cold air even while moving for a long time then randomly started blowing slightly warmer air and proceeded to get cold again. It was about 60 degrees outside when this happened last. The car does NOT ever overheat. I have replaced the water pump about a year ago. The fluids were flushed then. I put a new thermostat in just before getting that work done. I know that the problem can be the Heater Core or an air lock. What else can cause this? I dont want to put more money into solutions that are not helping.

About a year ago my front passenger window just stopped working. I attempted to put it down one day and it was unresponsive. I had never attempted to get this fixed...I had just accepted it for the time. But about a month ago when putting my back driver side window up it just stopped. Right in the middle. Not completely up not completely down...just enough to taunt and infuriate me. Do you know how hot it is when not using a/c in the summer with only one front and one back window down...the back one locked in kid safety...ugh. ANYWAY, I want to fix this myself, however I can get no clear picture from everything I have read. Its the motor, its the regulator, its the master switch, its the rear switches, use the switch from the passenger rear for the broken driver rear to test the motor, then...the switch from the passenger rear wont work on the driver rear window. SERIOUSLY? I checked the fuses and replaced a bad one for the driver right window. The moment I hit the switch it blew the fuse again. removed the rear left window motor. So where should I start? Can anyone tell how they resolved this issue.

This cars transmission when cold shifts nicely and is very responsive (gutsy), but after a brief warm up period all the speeds basically go gutless, and the only speed/gear is in the 2 position. There is also a very loud clunk when you shift it in and out of park, which my customer doesn't hear because the poor young man is deaf. I asked if he felt it and he said yes. He was relieved someone knew what that was. lol. I have heard a lot of relatively bad stuff regarding this transmission, from the college I attend and a transmission shop here in town, ran by a friend of mine. However, my hunch about this transmission running like a bat out of hell until it warms up are these. The fluid smells scorched, and is more of a dark brown than pink. So I am thinking either fluid has lost its viscosity, the filter inside is clogged, or maybe the transmission cooler lines/cooler could be clogged or very restricted. What do you all think? Tim Pueblo Colorado

I had the front mount engine replace couple of months ago, at the Honda local dealer, now when I turn the engine key on, I hear this sound like roughness last 3-4 weeks and now still hear vibration...

Whenever I put the key into the ignition it won't turn at all and the steering wheel isn't locked or anything but still if I turn the steering wheel while trying to turn the key the ignition won't move like it's stuck or something. I have a spare key that isn't programmed to start the car and that one won't even make it turn so I don't think it's the key.

Honda dealership performed multi-point inspection with my 2003 civic ex, just over 100k mileage. I expected problems as there were several concerns. One of them being transmission slipping between 2nd/3rd gears, when going 3K RPMs transmission slips and won't go.

To replace transmission, they quoted:
$5154 if core is usable.
$6354 if core unusable.

I have never heard of transmission core or no core costing over $5k for a 2003 honda civic. Anyone with similar quotes? Or overpriced?