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1997 Honda Accord Questions

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my problem is is that my trans. was working fine and the next time i started and drove it, it wouldnt shift into third,i changed the fluid and all to no avail. even though my fluid didnt have any shaving or smell burnt at all. i tried to change the two single selenoids on the transmission to no avail, but was wondering if maybe it had someting to do with the lock in selenoid or shifting selenoid. i cant help but think its an electrical failure the way it had quit. no problem with tranny slippng or the like before. i checked the two latter selenoids i was talking of that i didnt replace and they both seemed to be engaging when i put a hot wire to them. the question i guess im trying to ask is that in the cars electrical system what is it that put the spark to it or makes the wires light up going to them. does the car have to be rolling at a certain speed or does tach have to be revved up. etc. for there to be a spark going to them to make them kick in, just in case there may be a fault or short in my wiring. (or if this could even be the problem?). but like i said, i had no slippage, no smell of burnt or dirty fluid. its like it just happened all at once. i know hondas of this year have had tranny problems. but nothing i read seemed to apply. any thing that you could tell me would be greatly appreciated


















I corrected codes 301 302 with plugs. rotor button, plug wires, rotor cap thé car still misfiring. pût black on testing machine. Showed same codes. rechecked. plug. sites for good convection and thé light. and codes did not reappear. i drive à few miles light comes. black on car act thé same why

timing belt went while driving car on highway. Belt ,water pump and replacement belt changed. Timing is set correctly, , ignition coil replace but car will crank but will not start up. Wondering if internal engine damage was done. Is there any way to find his out.

Lube place changed my oil and 180 miles later it had lost 3 qts. Brought back and they "discovered" crack in oil pan about 3 inches long starting from outer ridge of bung hole. Stated that it was NOT done by them. Pan is not rusted at all, They repaired it with JB weld but I dont trust it. How much would it cost to replace oil pan, are they available new for my 1997 and Could there be any other explanation than they over torqued the bolt and cracked the bunghole?

I have been having problems with a the idle ever since I accidently started the car with the MAP sensor unplugged. Ever since then the car has idled very low, just over 500 rpm. I bought a new MAP sensor, cleared the error code and did a "idle learn", I cleaned the idle air control valve because it has a very rough idle. Now the car has started to stall when I put the car in park and turn the AC off. PLEASE HELP!!!

When I'm driving the temp will start going up as soon as I stop somewhere. And it will also start rising if going up a hill. But when I start driving normal again the temp gauge will go back Down then up and back and forth. Sometimes it'll even say it's in the red then randomly go right back to the middle. When I look under the hood the car never seems over heated.

The check engine light came on, the error code is p0706. I did some research online, is it the park/neutral position switch? If so where would it be located? Thanks

My car was overheating & shut off so I had radiator hose replaced(the one all the way at the bottom so much had to be taken out to get it. Now its fixed but car makes putt putt noises & moves slowly after my first & second stops then it works itself out & drives normally. It doesnt do it all the time though. I'm getting paranoid to drive it. I'm thinking will it cut off & did shop not do something right? Or put parts back correctly. It is like exhaust system jerk putt putts.