1997 Honda Accord Questions
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It's crack where tha manifold meets the motor bolt housing
Bolt housing is cracked all the way around the where the bolt goes to the engine
the coils good, distributors new and good, its got spark and new plugs, fuel system relay is good and new, however it still doesn't want to start, but it wants to...what do I need to check or do...
Ok. I work for GM and do this stuff for a living. I have access to ALLDATA. The car came to me running. It needs work, and we wanted to know if the engine was any good before putting money into it. I did a basic compression test. All cylinders between 100-110. Put the plugs back in and wires back on. Now it cranks and won't start. Got fuel, but no spark from coil wire to dist cap. Fuses are good. Tested coil. Primary side failed at 58 ohms (spec is 0.3 - 0.4) Replaced coil. Same issue. Tested ICM. It failed. Replaced Ignition Control Module. Same issue. Swapped whole distributor (I had one off an old motor). Same problem. Put new ICM in the swapped distributor. Same problem. Verified wiring between ECM pin A20 to ICM (green/yellow wire). Verified B+ voltage between ECM pins B5 and A26 (and 7.5A Starter Signal Fuse) during cranking. With a (Snap On) scanner on it, I see RPM (Engine Speed) signal during cranking. Coil wire tests at 1040 Ohms. Started over. Retested coil- now tests good. Retested ICM - tests bad again. Now I'm stuck. I have now tried 3 different ICM(s) and it keeps testing bad. Either my DVOM or ALLDATA is wrong. Or I truly have 3 (including 1 new) bad ICM(s). Any ideas/tests/help would be appreciated.
While driving went to shift from second gear to third and it wouldn't go. Now the car acts like it is stuck in neautral. It will not catch any gears at all. When I shifted the gears didn't grind when I tried to go from second to third. But did have a smell from car when this happened but clutch pedal still has some firmness.
The car has 260,000 miles on it and recently had it's brake pads replaced.
I have a noise in the drive tran sometime like a klunking sound
i stated in here before i was wondering again maybe if my problem was in my electrical. i wasnt quite right on the last statement i made, (it had been about a year since i drove the car)i said everything but high drove. i dont have reverse or drive or overdrive. i do have low and second and they seem to work fine, doesnt feel like any slippage at all, but does take a bit before it goes into them. im the one that said when i last drove it it was running fine and then parked for about an hour or so and when i drove it again it wouldnt shift into drive. fluid not dirty or burnt. changed two of the single selenoids on it and didnt help, but was now thinking of changing the two that were together, but checked them with an ohm meter and they were reading within specs. was wondering if maybe could be a problem in the wiring, or maybe a speed sensor or something to the like, cant really afford a garage, if its some6thing that i can do myself.i may be wrong, but refuse to think that its in the transmission itself. i may be wrong but have never seen one go out like that before. any help would be appreciated. steve