Close

1997 Honda Accord Questions

Get answers to questions about your 1997 Honda Accord at RepairPal. Find solutions, diagnose problems and get back on the road.

Refine by vehicle
×
Choose your vehicle
No car image 94a1663db56199c5353592009e34aaa51078a2469bed068bb8d6f0ba43accf97
Get a Repair Estimate
Guaranteed by certified locations nationwide. Learn more
RepairPal estimates are guaranteed at over 1,700 quality certified locations nationwide. Learn more
273
questions

When i would give it gas it would do like it dont wanna go but when it would catch it would drive fine

My son's Honda has been throwing a check engine light for the last 8 or 9 months and we can't seem to get it fixed. Have changed the distributor cap, two different temperature sensors multiple times and the manifold gasket (suggested that there was remaining gasket material causing a air lead).
The car runs fine, and then and then feels like it is stalling and then throws the check engine light. Turn off the car, wait 10 minutes, check engine light stays on, but the car runs okay. Dealership as well as Dobbs has been unable to get it fixed. The last fix (manifold gasket) was only for 1 week, less than 100 miles.

I bought a speed sensor for the transmission

It's crack where tha manifold meets the motor bolt housing

Bolt housing is cracked all the way around the where the bolt goes to the engine

the coils good, distributors new and good, its got spark and new plugs, fuel system relay is good and new, however it still doesn't want to start, but it wants to...what do I need to check or do...

Ok. I work for GM and do this stuff for a living. I have access to ALLDATA. The car came to me running. It needs work, and we wanted to know if the engine was any good before putting money into it. I did a basic compression test. All cylinders between 100-110. Put the plugs back in and wires back on. Now it cranks and won't start. Got fuel, but no spark from coil wire to dist cap. Fuses are good. Tested coil. Primary side failed at 58 ohms (spec is 0.3 - 0.4) Replaced coil. Same issue. Tested ICM. It failed. Replaced Ignition Control Module. Same issue. Swapped whole distributor (I had one off an old motor). Same problem. Put new ICM in the swapped distributor. Same problem. Verified wiring between ECM pin A20 to ICM (green/yellow wire). Verified B+ voltage between ECM pins B5 and A26 (and 7.5A Starter Signal Fuse) during cranking. With a (Snap On) scanner on it, I see RPM (Engine Speed) signal during cranking. Coil wire tests at 1040 Ohms. Started over. Retested coil- now tests good. Retested ICM - tests bad again. Now I'm stuck. I have now tried 3 different ICM(s) and it keeps testing bad. Either my DVOM or ALLDATA is wrong. Or I truly have 3 (including 1 new) bad ICM(s). Any ideas/tests/help would be appreciated.

While driving went to shift from second gear to third and it wouldn't go. Now the car acts like it is stuck in neautral. It will not catch any gears at all. When I shifted the gears didn't grind when I tried to go from second to third. But did have a smell from car when this happened but clutch pedal still has some firmness.

The car has 260,000 miles on it and recently had it's brake pads replaced.

I have a noise in the drive tran sometime like a klunking sound