It's been an ongoing thing for about a year.

where is a good place here Temple to repair this problem.

I hear a hissing sound coming from the engine compartment around the brake cylinder area,like something is loosing vacuum. I have checked the vacuum hose leading to the brake cylinder but they seam OK. Car operates good, no problem with braking or acceleration. Just the annoying noise.

whats the cost to repair my a/c

Have back off the star-adjuster and the rear drum move freely, but still cannot pull the drum out. The metal part of the shoes are probably into the drum, but I did not hear any metal noise. Hammering on the drum did not help. The two small threaded holes in the front are striped. Can I chisel out the hold-down pins on the back of back-up plate to release the break shoes to get room to pull the drum off?

Hello. Would this be the alternator problem or something else? I don't have problem starting the car every morning. However, if the car engine stop during driving, it takes at least 3 times to be able to fire up the engine again. Also, the power steering lost its power but the brake seems to be still working. Thanks,

I have a Honda Accord LX 1995, 4 door, 4 cylinder A month ago it quit on me, would not start The next day it started, two weeks later it quit again,I put a fuel pump and filter on it Last week it quit again! When I turn the key I cannot hear the fuel pump at all A few months ago my check engine light came on, when I had it checked they said there was a small clog in the gas line but not to worry about it If it is clogged completly now would that still cause the pump from not turning over? Some say it could b the relay switch can give me any idea of what is wrong?

would it be easier to pull the engine to replace the rear main seal, or the transaxle

I believe the sunroof seal is the problem. Any idea how big of a job and the cost to replace the seal?

Grinding sound in rear

I have a 1995 Honda Accord Ex sedan 4 cyl manual shift with 297,000 miles on it.
I decided to get the timing belt for $550 & tuneup $270 (spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor, air filter) done with the dealer.
Timing belt change included water pump, timing belt, and accessory belt replacements.
After they started working on timing belt, they told me I need to replace leaking engine oil seals for additional $179.
Also they said I need to replace leaking deteriorated engine coolant pipe for $354.
I spoke to a mechanic from another gas station, he said when they are doing timing belt, it would be simple to replace engine oil seal they are right there, I should have been charged only for parts which are negligible, instead of $179.
He also said the engine coolant pipe is also easily accessible; I should not have been charged $354 for it.
Could someone please tell me if I got ripped off for the oil seals and the coolant pipe unexpected repairs?
I appreciate your help.

My car starts shaking when i get between 60-68 mph and smooths out at 70. I have not gotten the same diagnose twise out of three shops. Any ideas so that i can approach the mechanic with?

the speedometer doesn't read speed, gas meter doesn't work, thermostat doesn't work, service lights don't work either.

dimmer needs to be replaced but I'm wanting to just connect the wires behind the switch since I never use the dimmer anyway.There are 2 red wires and 1 black wire.How would I go about connecting them.

What color is the brake fluid. The mechanic told me I need a new master cylinder and I have seen some fluid on my driveway so if is leaking what color do you think it could be?