Temp gauge looks normal, and heat blows when car is moving. Coolant level is good. Looking for the thermostat I found a weird piece on top of engine called a coolant outlet housing, has a bleeder valve on top. Tried to bleed air from coolant/ heater core lines, but the valve just spins in its fitting. Replace? Or is it more likely to be a blocked heater core, or bad thermostat? And that thermostat is a HUGE pain to get to.
Heat is blowing when the car is moving, but blows cold air when it's not. on 2006 Chrysler Sebring
2 answers 6 comments
Recheck coolant level. If it needs a T-stat, good luck, the local dealer here doesn't even replace them! I did ONE, and that's it for me!! It's just no money to be made on that job. Can't charge what it is worth! IMO.
You're right about the t-stat. Really big pain. Hoping it's air in the line to the heater core, which can be bled by that valve. Never seen an assembly like that, though. Think there might be a crack in the gasket, or the sleeve the actual valve is in because when I try and turn it, the whole thing spins. Ever clear a blockage or bubble in the heater core? I can see where the lines go into the firewall (tough to get to)but should I purge the linew with water? Or blow them out with a compressor maybe?
What about the water pump? or is it air flow problem.
Could be water pump. Is there an esy way to test the water pump? Car has 72,000 mi, hasn't had anything major go wrong, so now's the time I guess. Air flows fine. Did some research, and I guess these 2.7 L V-6's have all kinds of weird little quirks. Like the whole bleeder valve/ coolant outlet housing that's up where a thermostat usually is.
Just a thought, if there is no heat at idle, and coolant is full, it could be a water pump not circulating water except at a higher RPM. I have changed many of those housings because they separate and leak.
It is very possible the water pump impeller is defective. Is the engine getting hot with extended idle, temp going up?
Temp stays normal. No leaks I can find. Coolant has been a hair low twice in the last few months, but nothing alarming. Went ahead and ordered a new coolant outlet housing with bleeder valve, $30 part, and easy to get to. Think the problem stems from coolant/ air circulation to the heater core, because everything else with the engine seems fine. No temp/ overheating probs, no strange noises/ leaks, no warning lights.
It's easy after you get the plenum unbolted and raised to access the back bolt.