The synchronizer shaft for the camshaft position sensor can cause a loud squeak or chirping noise due to failure of the upper bushing. The noise may be erratic and is usually present when the engine is warm.
Resources for the Repair and Maintenance of your Ford Ranger
Ford Ranger Models:
Ford Ranger Problems
Engine Buck/Misfire at Freeway Speeds
Engine --
Verified
The engine may misfire and/or buck while driving at freeway speeds with no fault code stored in the powertrain control module (PCM). This can be caused by an intermittent fault with the camshaft synchronizer assembly. This condition can be diagnosed by monitoring knock sensor data as per Ford service bulletin #05-22-12. Replacement of the synchronizer assembly will be required to correct this concern.
Camshaft Sensor Magnet May Damage Synchronizers
Engine --
Verified
The magnet for the camshaft position sensor may fall out of its mount and damage the synchronizers. This causes long crank times when starting the engine and may cause the Check Engine Light to illuminate. If this happens, both the magnets and the synchronizers need to be replaced.
Updated Differential Clutch Kit Available if Rear End Noise is Heard
Drive Train --
Verified
If a noise from the rear end is heard when going around turns or after driving at highway speed for an extended period, this could be caused by a failing deferential clutch kit. An updated differential clutch kit available.
Buzzing Type Noise From Upper Engine Area
Engine --
Verified
A buzzing type noise may be noted from upper engine area at about 1900 RPM, under light acceleration. Our technicians tell us this can be caused by loose ignition coil bracket bolts. Coil bracket bolts should be checked for the correct torque before further diagnoses is performed.
Ford Ranger Recalls (Recent)
Ford Ranger Recall 96V161000
Body, Interior & Misc., December 11, 1996
Summary: THE CERTIFICATION LABELS ON THE INVOLVED VEHICLES HAS INCORRECT REAR TIRE INFLATION PRESSURE DESIGNATIONS. THIS DOES NOT COMPLY WITH FMVSS NO. 120, "TIRE SELECTION AND RIMS FOR MOTOR VEHICLES OTHER THAN PASSENGER CARS."
Learn more »Ford Ranger Recall 94V169001
Brakes, December 16, 1994
Summary: THE PARKING BRAKE CONTROL SELF-ADJUST PAWL DOES NOT LINE UP PROPERLY WITH THE SELF-ADJUST RACHET CAUSING THE PAWL TO SLIP OVER ONE OR MORE TEETH IN THE RACHET.
Learn more »Ford Ranger Recall 98E010000
Brakes, April 15, 1998
Summary: EQUIPMENT DESCRIPTION: AFTERMARKET BRAKE ROTORS FOR USE ON CERTAIN FORD AND MAZDA TRUCKS. CRACKED CASTINGS CAUSED CRACKS TO APPEAR ON THE OUTER DIAMETER OF THE ROTOR HAT OR AROUND THE STUD HOLE.
Learn more »Ford Ranger Recall 91V189000
Drive Train, March 2, 1992
Summary: WHEN THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION SHIFT LEVER IS PLACED IN THE PARK POSITION, THE PARK PAWL DOES NOT ALWAYS ABUT OR ENGAGE THE PARK GEAR.
Learn more »Ford Ranger Recall 01X001000
Drive Train, June 4, 2001
Summary: THIS IS NOT A SAFETY RECALL IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE SAFETY ACT. HOWEVER, IT IS DEEMED A SAFETY IMPROVEMENT CAMPAIGN BY THE AGENCY. EQUIPMENT DESCRIPTION: FORD IS REPLACING ALL FIRESTONE WILDERNESS AT 15, 16, AND 17 INCH TIRES MOUNTED ON FORD TRUCKS AND SUVS. FORD REPORTS TREAD SEPARATION CAN OCCUR DUE TO A COMBINATION OF THE SENSITIVITY OF THE TIRE DESIGN TO STRESS, AGING, AND MANUFACTURING DIFFERENCES BETWEEN PLANTS. FORD IS REPLACING THESE TIRES TO PREVENT POSSIBLE PREMATURE TIRE FAILURE. VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: THE VEHICLES LISTED BELOW MAY HAVE BEEN ORIGINALLY EQUIPPED WITH FIRESTONE WILDERNESS AT TIRES OR MAY HAVE HAD WILDERNESS AT TIRES INSTALLED DURING THE FIRESTONE RECALL LAUNCHED IN AUGUST 2000. CERTAIN 1991 THROUGHT 2002 FORD EXPLORER CERTAIN 2001 THROUGHT 2002 EXPLORER SPORT, AND SPORT TRAC CERTAIN 1997 THROUGH 2002 MERCURY MOUNTAINEER CERTAIN 1991 THROUGH 2001 RANGER CERTAIN 1999 THROUGH 2001 EXPEDITION CERTAIN 1991 THROUGH 1994, AND 1997 MODEL YEAR F-SERIES CERTAIN 1991 THROUGH 1994 BRONCO NOTE: BOTH ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT AND REPLACEMENT TIRES ARE AFFECTED.
Learn more »Ford Ranger Questions and Answers
Tonto, 1990 Ford Ranger, V6, Boca Raton, FL
The sensor seems to have only surface rust on it but no matter how much pressure I put on the wrench it just won't turn.I've sprayed liquid wrench but that doesn't help.
jsnpttr, 1990 Ford Ranger, V6, Sacramento, CA
starts out fine until i reach about 2500 rpms then boggs out for a second or two then catches itself and is fine until i shift and hit about the same rpms?
biserd, 1990 Ford Ranger, V6, Warminster, PA
Sometimes when I shift gears in my Ranger, the engine speed will increase after I depress the clutch and remove my foot from the gas pedal. After I drive it a while, the problem will go away if I t...
jjt, 1990 Ford Ranger, V6, Redwood City, CA
I am interested to know what a complete auto transmission exchange or overhaul would cost, and any warranty is included, within 30 miles of my area. Thanks
Dorothy, 1990 Ford Ranger, V6, Dittmer, MO
price estimate on pulling out,change bearing and put back in. Also what kind of gear oil is recommended
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Ford Ranger Reviews
A week ago I would have given my truck a 4 star rating across the board. I bought it in '02 and it now has 157,000 fairly trouble free miles. Only money I put into this truck was an alternator and basic wear outs such as tires and brakes.
But last week I took my truck into my mechanic to replace squeaky leaf spring bushing, they were driving me nuts. He called me in to have a look and to my horror I saw 2 leaf springs that were completely rusted out, one actually detached. Considering I had just pulled our pop-up 200 miles at 65 MPH it was clear that I could have been killed. Mechanic said this is a problem with Rangers, apparently the design leads to mud caking above the springs and the moisture eventually causes this much corrosion.
If you are looking to buy one used, and I may be doing just that as I can't afford the Japanese alternatives, look very closely underneath.
This is 2013 and I've got a 1996 Ranger with 98,000 miles on my ranger that I purchased new. I'm a very easy driver and fix things on the spot without fail, when it's time to be serviced it gets it. it has been garaged many years and I've found that it's a heap of rust especially from the mid point of the body and frame back to the tailgate. I've put bearings, calipers, disks, lines, hoses master cylinder and spindles on this truck twice once at 15000 and then at 75000 miles. The drivetrain is so as long as you have a long ramp to shoot down to get on the interstate. The Wipers, warning chimes, radio come on and go off anytime without me doing anything,. The radio button does not shut off and the fan switch only works in the high setting. The air conditioner was serviced twice replacing more then half of the parts, and it stopped totally at 69,000 miles. I've replaced the entire power steering system. Now the engine check light is on and the fuel neck is cracked from age. I've used FORD Dealers on at least 75% of the time and always use new parts. I pray that the neighbors tree would fall on it so the insurance would get me something better. Truly this is a (F)ound (O)n (R)oad (D)ead
[DaytonCarCare]
I've owned many cars, mostly German, and a few trucks. My first Ranger was a bare bones 94 Reg cab with 5 speed manual and the little 2.3L 4 cylinder. Too little power and felt like a tin can to drive in. Soon sold it and now have a 94 Supercab XLT 4x4 with the 4.0 OHV. Great truck, weak point is the auto locking front hubs that are prone to fail. I upgraded to manual locking ones. The 4x4 version feels like driving a luxury car compared to the base model economy version reg cab 2.3. So far installed a bed tonneau cover and a 5 channel amp, 12" sub and new HU stereo. Everything is great on it except I'd like to have cruise control and powered locks since I installed an alarm with remote for that option. Gas mileage isn't bad with the 4.0 if you keep your foot away from the floor. I average about 20 mpg with city/hwy combined. It could use rear disc brakes, but I understand you can do a swap with an Explorer for that. Also recommend replacing the front ball joints if a lot of miles on them. Also no ignition cap n rotor to worry about replacing since it has a DIS (distributorless ignition system with coil pack).
Additionally I was surprised the AC still worked. I just did a DIY can of R134 and it's blowing cold again. And the heater works very well. I never have to turn it up more than at halfway point, and I live were it snow and gets in the 20s at times in the winter. I thought the water pump was failing, but a new thermostat and coolant stop leak additive did the trick. New parts are easy to find and very affordable. Not something I could brag about with my previous German made cars.
I HAVE ONLY 48,500 MILES ON MY 2003 RANGER XLT AND I HAVE HAD TO REPLACE CAD.CONVERTER AND NOW UPPER AND LOWER BALL JOINTS. I THINK FORD DID NOT HAVE A GOOD IDEA WITH THIS TRUCK. BALL JOINTS SHOULD LAST 100,000 MILES AND CAD. CONVERTER FOR EVER. I WILL DRIVE HER TILL SHE FALLS APART AND AFTER THAT I AM A CHEVY MAN
I have replaced the alternator, batterie and starter and the only way can start it is by jumping it off. I am not sure what can be the problem.
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