Resources for the Repair and Maintenance of your Ford Ranger
Ford Ranger Models:
Ford Ranger Problems
Noise From Synchronizer Shaft Upper Bushing
The synchronizer shaft for the camshaft position sensor can cause a loud squeak or chirping noise due to failure of the upper bushing. The noise may be erratic and is usually present when the engine is warm.
Camshaft Sensor Magnet May Damage Synchronizers
The magnet for the camshaft position sensor may fall out of its mount and damage the synchronizers. This causes long crank times when starting the engine and may cause the Check Engine Light to illuminate. If this happens, both the magnets and the synchronizers need to be replaced.
Buzzing Type Noise From Upper Engine Area
A buzzing type noise may be noted from upper engine area at about 1900 RPM, under light acceleration. Our technicians tell us this can be caused by loose ignition coil bracket bolts. Coil bracket bolts should be checked for the correct torque before further diagnoses is performed.
Engine Buck/Misfire at Freeway Speeds
The engine may misfire and/or buck while driving at freeway speeds with no fault code stored in the powertrain control module (PCM). This can be caused by an intermittent fault with the camshaft synchronizer assembly. This condition can be diagnosed by monitoring knock sensor data as per Ford service bulletin #05-22-12. Replacement of the synchronizer assembly will be required to correct this concern.
Updated Differential Clutch Kit Available if Rear End Noise is Heard
If a noise from the rear end is heard when going around turns or after driving at highway speed for an extended period, this could be caused by a failing deferential clutch kit. An updated differential clutch kit available.
Ford Ranger Recalls (Recent)
Ford Recalls 2010 Ranger Trucks Due to Parking Brake Cable Issue
RepairPal Expert Overview:
Ford has recalled certain 2010 Ranger trucks equipped with a manual transmission because the parking brake cable may become detached from the right rear actuator. Without a functional parking brake, the vehicle may roll out of control when parked. Dealers will replace the right rear parking brake actuator with a revised unit.
Learn more »Ford Ranger Recall 07V336000
Summary: ON CERTAIN PICKUP TRUCKS, PASSENGER VEHICLES, SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, AND MOTOR HOMES CHASSIS, THE SPEED CONTROL DEACTIVATION SWITCH MAY, UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS, LEAK INTERNALLY AND THEN OVERHEAT, SMOKE, OR BURN.
Learn more »Exterior Lights May Not Function as Expected
RepairPal Expert Overview:
An internal fault may develop within the multi-function turn signal switch. This can affect turn signal, tail, hazard, and/or brake light operation. Non-functioning exterior lights could increase the risk of a crash. Dealers will replace the multi-function switch to correct this concern. This recall is scheduled to begin on August 15, 2011. The Ford recall number is 11C18.
Learn more »Possible Fuel Leak
RepairPal Expert Overview:
The engine fuel line near the throttle body may contact the edge of the shield, chafing the fuel line. This can result in a fuel odor or leak, increasing the risk of a fire. Dealers will trim the throttle body shield and inspect and replace the fuel line as necessary. This recall is expected to begin on March 7, 2011. The Ford recall number is 11S17.
Learn more »Ford Recalls 2009 Ranger Trucks Due to Possible Wheel Spindle Failure
RepairPal Expert Overview:
Ford has recalled certain 2009 Ranger 4x2 trucks because of a manufacturing flaw in the front wheel spindles. The wheel spindles could fail, which may increase the risk of an accident. Dealers will replace the front wheel spindles as necessary.
Learn more »Ford Ranger Questions and Answers
The sensor seems to have only surface rust on it but no matter how much pressure I put on the wrench it just won't turn.I've sprayed liquid wrench but that doesn't help.
starts out fine until i reach about 2500 rpms then boggs out for a second or two then catches itself and is fine until i shift and hit about the same rpms?
Sometimes when I shift gears in my Ranger, the engine speed will increase after I depress the clutch and remove my foot from the gas pedal. After I drive it a while, the problem will go away if I t...
I am interested to know what a complete auto transmission exchange or overhaul would cost, and any warranty is included, within 30 miles of my area. Thanks
price estimate on pulling out,change bearing and put back in. Also what kind of gear oil is recommended
Ford Ranger Stories
I drive my 97 Ranger nearly 70 mile a day just going and coming from work. Almost 250,000 miles on it now and it got it first fluid leak from the heater control valve. Replaced it for less than $15 and topped off the radiator and I am back in business. And I have abused this thing going without oil changes, never changing the gear box and rear end lube. I might have to spoil it some and get that done.
I HAVE HAD PROBLEMS WITH BUCKING AND SURGING. GRAGE IS UNABLE TO PICK UP CODE. WE HAVE REPLACED MAS AND COMPUTER.STILL HAVING PROBLEMS.CAN ANYONE HELP.MY EMAIL IS RJI23@AOL.COM
THIS TRUCK HAS 95000 MILES. WAS RUNNING REAL GOOD. IT STARTED BUCKING AT ABOUT 45 ON UP. THEN WHEN YOU CAME TO A STOP IT STARTED TO SURGE.ALSO SURGED IN PARK. BEEN TO GRAGE SEVERAL TIMES AND CAN'T SEEM TO FIND PROMBLES. NO CODES. REPLACE VACUME HOSES AND MAS.ANYONE CAN HELP I WOULD BE GRATEFUL.OUT OF WORK AND CAN'T SPEND ALOT MORE.THANK YOU
this truck is a 93 - 2.3 eng. 5 speed. IT JUST WONT QUIT. Had minor problems with mis-fire, sensors, etc, but all in all it just gets up and goes. I found using iridium plugs and hi-test gas- full synthetic oil and regular maint will keep it running forever. I now have 202,000 miles. I also changed the trans fluid from dexmerc to LUCAS Gear Oil and Also the differential. AT 70mph on the interstate it gets 26 mpg... Well what do you want from 100 hp.. This truck has caused me NO headaches -- unlike my wife... Take care of it and it will take you right through social security
I have a 98 Ford Ranger, 5 speed MT. When first started, the engine runs fine, but after the engine heats up a bit, it will peg out. This is really noticeable when at a stop light with the clutch depressed. It will run at max RPM's for a while and then suddenly drop off to nornmal. Once the light turns green though, the trouble returns. The only recourse I have is to put it in 5th gear and almost bog the engine down. I've replaced every vacuum related part, springs and even adjusted the idle to as low as I could get and still maintain the engine running.. I have been told that the Fan clutch is failing and should replace it, but this couldn't be the problem, could it?