This has been an ongoing problem. First it appeared the engine would not run when it was hot. Was told it was the ICM so that was changed out. After the ICM swap, the car would not run cold or hot. Was told a shorted Cam sensor would cause it. Swap out the cam sensor and car would then crank and run but the return to the stalling after idling. Was told the crankshaft sensor could be bad. Replaced the crankshaft sensor and drove the car six miles when it stalled on me. Towed home, the next day the engine started and ran, turn it off. That evening went to move the car and it would crank but not start.
The next morning the car crank and started, noticed smoke at the EGR valve, thinking electrical, turn engine off, checked EGR wiring, found nothing, attempted to start car it would not start. Thinking stuck EGR valve, I removed the EGR valve and disassembled it. The solenoids did not appear to be sticking and there was not a lot of build up of gunk; just normal exhaust residue. I cleaned everything and reassembled the EGR valve and installed it back on the engine. I had removed the battery cable to clear out the code where I unplugged the camshaft sensor. I started the car and it ran rough for a bit but then smoothed out. As I was standing by the car it would stumble a bit at times and I noticed the serpentine belt tensioner was jerking and I could hear a bearing squeal at times. I turned the engine off to check the tensioner pulley and I could feel when turning it that the bearing is starting to go.
I then started the engine, or attempted to start the engine and it would not start, it would turn over and appear to fire but not run. The engine had warmed up a bit but not hot; I could place my hand on the radiator without it burning me. I tried spraying some starting fluid into the intake connector tube (through a split; will need to replace it later) and attempted to start the engine without any luck. It would be nice if I had a helper but I don't.
So I decided to let it sit a bit to see if it would run after cooling a bit. I hooked the fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail and later started the car and it ran fairly smooth, the RPMs did change a bit, slowing a bit and the fuel pressure as the engine was running was approximately 39 psi. The car only ran for a short time before it started stumbling again and I noticed the fuel pressure gauge swing up to around 50 psi and when the engine died the fuel pressure stopped at 46 psi.
To recap, the coolant sensor, the ICM, the camshaft sensor, and crankshaft sensor have been replaced. The Mass Air Flow sensor was cleaned and the TPS was checked with an ohmmeter and appeared to not have any opens, the ohmmeter needle swung continuously as the TPS was moved through its range.