UPDATE: The shop said it's the distributor, and they want to charge me approx $850 to replace it. (on a 16 year old car!) Does that sound like a reasonable cause for the problem? And does that sound like a reasonable price?? Two days ago, the engine cut out while driving. After a few minutes, I was able to start the car and continue driving the rest of the day. (In the past, if the car should ever stall out, it required a wait of 5-10 minutes before it would start again). However, yesterday, the engine cut out while driving, and would not restart. There was no sputtering or engine roughness - the engine sounded perfect until it just suddenly went dead. I went back and tried again this morning (left it in a parking lot) hoping to get it home - it still won't start. It cranks like it wants to - no clicking noise, strong cranking sound when turning key, the electrical accessories work (radio, etc.) but the car won't actually catch and start. Any ideas on cause? I want to have some idea what I'm looking at - the car is old and not worth too much investment to fix. I need to fix it cheaply if at all possible. Thanks so much!!
UPDATED QUESTION: Engine died while driving - now will not start on 1994 Mazda 626
by Haikukitty in Millersville, MD on April 06, 2010
7 answers 2 comments
ANSWER by M_Kast on April 06, 2010
It sounds like you either need to replace your fuel filter (VERY cheap), your fuel pump, or both. I think your problem is being caused by a fuel management problem. Try replacing your fuel filter first.
ANSWER by Visitor on June 25, 2010
distribiter costs approx. 180-320, and takes less then a half hour to replace ,, check ecu for water damage some water damage may occur due to air conditioning unit leaking condensation on the ecu ,, also check crank sensor , also check loose rotor under dis cap,,
I am having a similar problem, but without any warning. The car has always started and never stalled or not started. I parked it, returned and hour later, and nothing. All other electronics are working fine. It turns over strong, no knocking, no hesitation, just no spark going to the plugs. I've checked the fuses, they are all in order. In the last six months I've replaced the battery, plugs, wires, filters, belts, and starter. I'm not interested in replacing the whole distributor, and help
I am having a similar problem, but without any warning. The car has always started and never stalled or not started. I parked it, returned and hour later, and nothing. All other electronics are working fine. It turns over strong, no knocking, no hesitation, just no spark going to the plugs. I've checked the fuses, they are all in order. In the last six months I've replaced the battery, plugs, wires, filters, belts, and starter. I'm not interested in replacing the whole distributor, any advise?
ANSWER by Superbob on December 18, 2010
Check to see of there's spark. if not, check inside the distributor cap for waterm damage or corrosion. It's very common for the distriblutor to fail with this engine. Actually, it's usually the cam position sensor in the distributor, and you replace the distributor because the CMP's not servicable seaparately. The part should cost $300 to $400 for a quality rebuilt distributor from Mazda. Last time I checked, anyway. It's worth about an hour labor time to install it and recheck. Should be easy to diagnose, the car should have a cam position sensor signal code, or maybe not. But if the distributor has power and ground and won't spark, it's usally the distributor. A Mazda specialist would recognise this problem right away. It's not worth $850, more like $500. Sorry, but the age doesn't reflect the cost of repairs (they don't go down as the car gets older), but the car must be worth that much to you to fix unless it's a wreck and not worth it. --Superbob
ANSWER by fullpelada on December 25, 2010
Its your ignition module napa carrys it . if you wanna do it the cheap way just go to a junkyark and get the whole distributor. but cross your fingers that that ignition is working. that s your best option. I had a mazda and same problem
ANSWER by SeabeeMechanic on December 27, 2010
I have a 1996 Jetta, 2.0 liter and had this similar problem happen to me. I first replaced the fuel fiiter and when this did not correct the problem I continued with checking that my timing was proper. After a few hours, I was able to verify that my timing was off. Once corrected, my car has not given me any more issues. Good luck and let us know how things workout.
ANSWER by Visitor on February 22, 2011
It could be the fuel pump relay.
ANSWER by 94v6owner on January 03, 2013
I have had this prob it sounds like the distributor. replacement of leads and distributor cost me $204 from auto parts.com for the parts .The first check i did was to remove fuel line from fuel rail to check for fuel pressue eliminating fuel pump failure.arfter removing fuel line crank engine to see if fuel is pressure is present.removal of distributor cap showed signs of pitting and server arcing on rotor and cap there was also a split on plastic distributor base.there is a sensor in distributor which sends a signal to fuel solinoids to open. if distributor is damaged it wont sent that signal.you cannot replace this sensor a new distributor is needed.for ease of acces to distributor remove air box. distributor failure on this model is not uncommon.