1995 Geo Prizm, 193000 miles and it cuts out at 2700 rpm and above. Can accelerate through it during shifting but cuts out intermittently. Wires and plugs seem to be ok. There is a small crack where the coil mounts on the side of the distributor. Any ideas?
Engine cuts out at higher rpm on 1995 Geo Prizm
Asked by for the 1995 Geo Prizm
Did you figure this out? I have the exact same problem on my 1995 toyota corolla.
3 more answers , 2 more comments
Your catalytic converter could be plugged up - preventing sufficient exhaust from getting out the tailpipe. This would cause this. Connect a vacuum guage to the intake manifold - make sure you're getting a reading - then hold the RPMs to 3000 and see if the vacuum starts dropping steadily over half the scale of the gauge. If it does, that's a sign of a clogged catalytic converter as well.
This engine is a Toyota so parts should be easy to get. Is the car difficult to start? When an engine is "cold" fuel does not atomize well and demands on the ignition system is high. If the ignition system is weak it will act up on cold starting and on acceleration when demand on the ignition system are high. With the engine running, vehicle in park and the hand brake applied, spray water from a household spray bottle (like a Windex/ Windowline bottle) on ignition system components. If ignition insulation has broken down (on the spark plug wires ignition coil or distributor cap) the spark will take the easiest path to ground (via the water as water is a good conductor of electricity). I have seen the spark plug wires "short out" at or near the tip of the spark plug end of the wire, the plastic insulator fails. I have seen a lot of ignition coil failure and it is probably worth wile removing the distributor cap and rotor to visually inspect. (inspect distributor cap carbon brush). If its not ignition related when was the last time the fuel filter replaced ( a little difficult to replace on your car). Too many things it could be with out actually seeing the car.
So hard to "guess" without seeing the car. One would think a bad coil, rotor and or ignition components would act up when cold, Sensors in the distributor could go open circuit when they get "hot" and work fine perhaps when the car cools down but would generally happen a few times before the car would have broken down. You would really have to start doing diagnostic tests, fuel pressure and delivery volume, check for restriction in the exhaust/catalytic converter, test ignition ect....
It's starts real easy and runs fine until it warms a little then starts cutting out at around 2700 rpm, right about time it shifts. Idles fine.
Check your air filter. I know someone who had the original one in there car after 130,000 miles and this took care of the problem 100% The problem with this car no maintenance is needed for 150,000 miles so it could be almost anything small. Worth spending some money...the car is a keeper!!!