1999 Dodge Ram 3500 QuestionsRefine by vehicle
Cleaned the plug and now it won't shift check engine light on
It's always doing it now.all I did was clean the connects to tranny been in salt air over winter
New cap and rotor. Checked spark plug wires.
My truck is a 1999 5 speed 24V 4x4 dually. I do not have any problems starting and no problems with it dying. I have replaced the injector pump, lift pump, ECM, TPS, fuel relay, and fuel and air filters all within the last 16 months. The injector pump was replaced again in February 2015 due to an o-ring blowing out. These problems started after that pump replacement.
Truck runs fine while it is cold, but once it starts to warm up it seems like it falls on its face for a second while I am driving. When it first started happening it would do it when I tried to exceed 60 mph. I tried to get it to act up while I was parked and it did not for quite a few days and then finally it started acting up while I was parked and throttling up to about 2100 rpm. Now it does it at 50 mph and about 1100 to 1300 rpm.
The engine is not dying, it simply drops a couple of hundred rpm for a second and then picks itself back up. It is starting to do it more often the warmer the engine gets.
I have had the truck to two shops, both guys are certified cummins mechanics with over 20 years in the business, and I have had it to one dealership. The two independent guys say they can not figure it out and it drives them crazy.
The dealership called about 3:30 on a Thursday afternoon asking for patience while they figure it out, "we don't want to just throw parts at it, we want to get it right". About 8:30 Friday morning they call back and say "we can replace the injector pump and ECM and see if that fixes it, using Chrysler parts that will be $6,400.00".
The truck has been pretty much down since February, I would like to get it on the road again, any ideas? The truck only has 187,xxx miles on it.
Blower control knob was replaced at dealer still only works on low or high. Don't know what else to check
Dealer said that's how it's suppose to work but I also have a 2000 van and that one has 5 different blower speeds.
Vehicle is a rear wheel drive 1999 Dodge 3500 5.9Liter with a vibration that starts at 55mph and gets worse at higher speeds.I have been advised to replace all u-joints and bearings from the transmission to the rear of a dual drive shaft.
check engine light on tested it and codes are p1689 and p1693 what are they.
It starts, idles, and takes off fine. but looses power especially up grades, checked for leakes, changed fuel filter, tried resetting apps with no response. no codes or ck eng light on
How do you adjust the park brake on a Dodge 3500 5.9L Diesel Turbo engine, manual transmission. Engaging the park brake does not stall the truck out when it's in gear. Also, if you leave the truck in neutral on a incline or decline with the park break engaged, it does not hold. Can anyone out there advise me on what to do?
over about 12 RPMs. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
the fuse (20amp) blows 2 or more time a month
I have a '99 Ram Van 3500 that has been converted into a camper. The van only has about 50k miles and is generally in great shape, except that the A/C has a leak and won't hold refrigerant. The van has two units, one for the front and one for the back. The leak (at least the one I've located) is in the "high side" near the rear unit, just where it makes the bend to go up.
The way the van is configured as a camper, I really don't even use the rear unit. So I was wondering if it would be possible to replace the connectors under the hood that feed the rear lines could simply be capped, so only the front unit is used. It seems logical enough to me, and would have the added benefit of reducing the required refrigerant charge by half.
Would this create any problems? And, if not, where would I find two "plug" fittings to replace the existing "connector" fittings?
Thanks for any help.
The seat belts won't work. They will not come out when trying to put them on.
I am having a hard time removing the clip style connector to the back of the alternator housing. Is there some trick to get this to release?
could front abs be deleted