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2010 Chevrolet Malibu Question: Do i need to replace my ignition module and battery?

 

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mjohnson13, 2.4L 4 Cylinder, Great Falls, MT, May 20, 2013, 07:55
 Rookie

Over the last month, my car has been acting up. Taking longer and longer to turn over, removing the key and the engine still running! Now this morning, my car wouldn't start, wouldn't turn over and the key fab wouldn't work! Its completely dead! We tried to jump it and it melted the jumper cables! Help?!? Whats wrong?!?

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  • Answer #1

    Greg's Orange Auto (13978 Answers) , Orange, CA - (714) 361-9386
    globalhelper May 20, 2013, 13:08
     Master

    SOUNDS LIKE YOUR BATTERY IS TOTALLY SHOT. DELCO BATTERIES ONLY LAST 2 TO 3 YEARS I WOULD START THERE

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    mjohnson13, May 20, 2013, 13:37
     Rookie

    Would that affect how the engine wasnt shutting off normal?

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  • Answer #2

    May 20, 2013, 14:32
    Profile_thumbnail
     Master

    Have a mechanic check the ignition electrical switch. Were jumper cables hooked up correctly? Light duty cables?

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    mjohnson13, May 20, 2013, 14:51
     Rookie

    Yes they were and yes light duty I'm assuming they came with my just in case kit. I will do that.

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    pushrod, May 20, 2013, 14:58
    Profile_thumbnail
     Master

    Yeah i got one of those kits too, they do ok if the car will almost start anyway. Also have starter draw tested. Like greg suggested battery may be shorted! Somewhere here should reveal your trouble though.

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  • Answer #3

    May 21, 2013, 02:30
     Journeyman

    The ignition module is not your problem. As globalhelper said, your battery is shot. But the battery is not the root cause of your problem. If the car stayed running after key off, you could have an ignition switch malfunction causing that, but it would not cause the melted jumper cables, as it would not be drawing enough current to cause this (unless you hear the starter motor running the entire time too and the ignition switch is stuck in the "Crank" position). All GM cars nowadays use low current switches that send signals to the BCM, PCM, and other modules and then have relays to control the high current side. Remove the starter relay from the underhood electrical box and check to see if terminal 85 is getting power when the key is rotated to the crank position and that power goes away when the key is let go from the crank position. If this is functioning normally, you have just eliminated the Ignition switch, the starter relay, the BCM and the PCM as causes of the high current to be drawn (that said, the Ign. Sw., BCM, or PCM could still be the cause(s) of the car continuing to run after key removal). With the jumper cables melted I would agree with pushrod and would be inclined to take a good look at the starter motor and check the positive battery cable for a serious short to ground. The 4 cyl. motor in that car should not require near enough current to crank over to melt any cables.

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