(95 Accord LX 2DR coupe F22 SOHC NON-VTEC) Within the past 5 years ive replaced the fuel pump, the fuel filter, the entire ignition system,the V.S.S, Cleaned fuel system and injectors multiple times and ive checked all of these in the past few days. The car has been running perfect for years besides those few problems, hasnt sputterd or stalled or had a problem shifting at all. 3 days ago i put it in reverse backed up about 3 feet and it died and hasnt started since. The D4 light started blinking and c.e.l light came on when i went to re start and it hasnt stopped since. also The fuel pump is not running as it should before start up now. ive checked the fuses and ive checked every plug on the tranny and the motor. ive checked the tranny solenoid wiring and found nothing. ive read a few things about it possibly being one of the main relays which i have yet to check. Alot of people assume it to be the vss but ive crossed that bridge before and had completely different problems than what i have now. Again... backed up, car died, D4 light flashs,check engine light came on, and fuel pump stopped priming system and car wont start all at the same time, car just turns over and over without luck. i havent jumped the plug on the pass side to get my codes yet but i plan on it...pleeaase help
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1995 Honda Accord Question: D4 blinking, CEL light on, fuel pump not priming,car wont start why??
Answer #1ziptie12 October 06, 2012, 14:08Master
More info to start- How many miles on current timing belt? Has it been checked for spark/compression/fuel pressure?Do you do the repair/diagnostic work yourself?
ReplyNick1a, October 11, 2012, 11:18Rookie
yes i do the work myself. the belt is fine as is my compression. I have no voltage going to my fuel system or my ignition system but the motor turns over, all of the dash and interior lights work along with my radio and headlights. I have not jumped the plug for my trouble codes but i plan to. i had someone tell me its the ignition switch but the problems are a little different than what that would cause. my only guess at this point would be either the main relay or my computer...if you have any further input i would greatly appreciate it!
Replyziptie12, October 12, 2012, 17:58Master
2 things to check -first for no-start issue, hopefully in a quite environment , watch the check engine light and turn the key to the 'run' position and listen for a 'click' at the same time as when the check engine light goes off. try it more than once to be sure of whether or not you here a click. If you hear a click then the 'main' relay should be okay. If you do not hear a click from the relay , replace it. Second - the 'd4' light flashing indicates a problem with the trans - code(s)should be stored. May or may not be caused by engine issue , but should not be the cause of no-start.????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
ReplyNick1a, October 29, 2012, 13:52Rookie
OK..i got my codes which blinked through the d light and the SRS light and nothing relates to the tranny. ive pulled the main relay, resoldered some cracked joints with no effect. i also pulled my ECM and TCM and found nothing wrong with either one.The codes the car gave me are #3-Map sensor circuit, #4-CKP sensor / engine speed (RPM) Crank angle sensor or circuit, ECU sensor, #8-CKP sensor / engine speed (RPM) Crank angle sensor or circuit, ECU sensor, #-13 BARO sensor circuit BARO sensor or circuit, #-14 Idle Air Control valve circuit / ECU Open or shorted out ignition signal circuit / No signal to ECU and #-42 Oxygen sensor heater - right side Oxygen sensor / heater or circuit. i checked alll of the wires for that bundle of sensors and found nothing. i also pulled a vac and volt test on the map with no problems. I checked all of my Vac lines with no issues there. i will definetly check for the relay click which i didnt think about but from there besides my ignition switch i dont know where to look next...for once this car has me almost beat
Replydspagnu366, May 03, 2013, 18:11Rookie
i had very similar codes on my 1995 honda prelude si with a h23a1 engine. i was installing a stereo subwoofer and amplifier in the car the other day and all of a sudden i noticed the D4 light flashing on the dashboard. the check engine light remained on constantly also and the car wouldnt start for shit. the engine cranks but i cant see any sparks. i just had the ignition switch replaced like 2 months ago. i took the liberty of replacing the main relay myself yesterday but the same problems persisted. i cant think of what went wrong or what is wrong. this sucks. i did manage to blow the clock radio fuse but replaced it right away and the head unit was working again. all electronics are working in the car. brand new main relay now. not getting any spark. cant get the engine to start. the CEL is on but doesnt blink codes when i jump the service connector. the D4 light flashed the following codes: 1,2,4,8,14. i finally towed it to a certified honda/acura repair shop and they told me that they got nothin from the computer and suggested i get a replacement. i ordered a new ECU off ebay for 50 bucks and it should be here within two weeks. but im wondering if this will really fix every problem? the car was running, driving perfectly, nothing was wrong with it. all of a sudden during a stereo installation everything went wrong. can i get a second opinion on my situation? how likely is it to fry your ECU when installing a stereo. i checked my fuses- theyre all set. it doesnt make sense. will a new ECU fix i? please. thanks.
ReplyNick1a, May 06, 2013, 07:39Rookie
Bro, first off let me just tell you that my baby is still broke down. My ECU fuse would not quit blowing, i mean as soon as i turned the key to crank, POP, every time. Heres the weird part, i rewired the fuse box under the hood and disconnected the entire radio that i installed years prior to this problem that ive had for 3 months up to this point, some how magically the car came to life. The car ran perfect for a week and then it started bogging randomly for a few seconds while driving and then it would go away. Finally after 3 weeks it stumbled and died and would not start, sent my girlfriend and i walking 20 miles. Since then i have stripped my motor to the bare block, traced and checked continuity on all wires and found NOTHING. It has to be some small component wired in with that ECU fuse or that fuse block that is shorting inside itself. I've read this but have not done it yet, it said to pull all of the fuses besides the ECU fuse and supposably the car should start. Then it says one by one re-install the other fuses until the ECU fuse pops. Once this happens pull the rest back out and only install the ECU fuse and the one that made it blow and double check it. If it blows again RE-check it by pulling that fuse out and leaving only the ECU fuse and starting the car, if it starts you have found what part of your harness has the problem which narrows it down to only a few components. Like i said i havent tried it but it sounds like a damn good idea because i dont know if you read my first messege but i pulled EVERY computer in my car out and put them under a microscope, i did find some bad solder joints that i repaired but with no luck so if i would have known that trick before all of that i may have already fixed it(if it works), ive just been too busy lately. I hope ive helped, this is one of those problems that is so small and hidden and stupid that hardly anyone has heard of it so help probably wont come from a shop. I know once i figure it out im gonna slap the hell out of myself for not finding it sooner...good luck my friend, be patient and remember, there is a way to test all of the little components..just google it and go one by one if need be. Also, if something happened when you installed the stereo it is possible for a voltage spike to surpass a fuse and go straight into a component depending on the strength of the spike, so if that occured the small problem that started the spike has now caused a much worse and much more confusing problem that no one understands because it surpassed the fuse so keep that in mind
Replycoachhubert, July 11, 2013, 11:18Rookie
Did you ever solve the problem? If so, please share the wealth... I have been battling the same issues with my 93 Honda Accord. C.E.L. codes: 12, 14, 43 and D4 codes: 1, 2, 3, 7, 8, 14. The car will start and idle forever it seems, but will blow the 10A fuse as soon as I put it into gear (R or D4). The mechanic and I are stumped! Coincidentally, my radio (cassette player) has never worked. I thought it was because of a tape jammed in there, but the radio would turn on by itself (usually after a bit of driving) and the antenna would go nuts (going up and down, non-stop)! I just got fed up and took out the fuse for the radio/antenna. Any information would be great. Thanks!
Answer #2nevalex April 13, 2014, 03:32Rookie
Got the exact same problem with my Dads car at the moment . Spoken to my Honda "guru" and he suggested the fuel relay under the dash ....dry joints ...resolder...etc. So I took Dads relay out and replaced it with the one from my car (same model) and the problem was still there . So I put Dads relay into my car and it started and ran fine . So I took Dads relay out of my car and left the relay plug dangling with NO RELAY and my car exhibited the same fault ...ECL on and D4 flashing and won't start ...no "whizz" from the fuel pump when you turn the key on . So I put my relay back into my car and it fired up immediately and ran fine . This fault is a result of not having a relay present which must be "no power to the relay " perhaps . Still haven't got Dads car going by the way ...I need help too ...sounds like replacing the ECU won't help from what I've read here ...Heeeeeeeelp !! :(