I would purchase a shop manual of some sort. You will need to jack up the car, at least on the side of the bad axle, remove the wheel, the axle nut ( usually takes an air gun to break it loose ) disconnect the lower ball joint, the outer tie rod end and any stablizer bolts and links. Then you need to CAREFULLY remove the inner joint from the trans by using a prybar against the trans, BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE OR CRACK THE TRANS CASE!!! Use a block of wood if necessary. Then once the inner joint is free, you can usually slide off the wheel bearing from the axle and then work the axle out. Some guys like to slide off the strut and wheel bearing first and then tie off the strut with a bungie cord first. I like to free the inner joint with the outer joint still in the hub, so the axle doesn't fall out on the floor. Some TRANS fluid will leak out, so be prepared to replace it when the job is done. BE SURE TO ABSOLUTELY COMPARE THE NEW AXLE TO THE OLD ONE. MAKE SURE IT IS AN EXACT FIT. CAREFULLY!!! insert the new axle in to the TRANS seal first and push on it. You should feel a click when the inner circlip engages. Then you can slip the outer portion of the axle through the hub and wheel, bearing and re-assemble. You will definitely need to use new cotter pins and torque the bolts. I usually use a loctite thread sealant, usually the blue type, so the bolts won't work loose. The new axle should have a new nut with a crush ring on the outside. The axle nut usually takes about 100-125 pounds of torque. If the axle nut is under torqued, the wheel bearings will be ruined in short order. Good Luck.