Get the latest advice about your car

Get Started
Advice » Q&A » 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe

Q&A

Ask Your Question

2004 Hyundai Santa Fe

Question: Crunchy sounding noise mostly in front end on passenger side

Question

Singlemom, 3.5L V6, South Weymouth, MA, November 14, 2010, 21:14
Profile_thumbnail
 Enthusiast

2004 Santa Fe LX 3.5 all wheel drive about 65,000 gently used miles. I brought it new.

To start first I had a whine from under the hood that was low and became louder with time. I thought it was the power steering pump. Took it to the dealer who diagnosed for a fee the problem by use of a stethoscope after removing the belts to isolate the noise they said. They said it was the Tensioner pulley and replaced that for a few hundred. But, then they put the belts back on and came and told me the whine was still there and they listened again, it was the power steering pump. BUT the Tensioner Pulley had also been making noise and was bad and maybe I was just not able to tell it was two things whining. So, Pump a few hundred more. They also had to replace the Tie Rod Boot because it was ripped apart and its thick grease was oozing out of the rip a little. (The tie rod boot is a rubber boot that covers the tie rod joint to keep it clean and greased.) $100, and an alignment. All said and done $1000. Oh, and they said my front R and L axle boots were leaking a little. (Which they said at the last oil change too and quoted me a price then and said if I can't do them now then watch them until they blow out oil). This time though the service tech said they are still covered under warranty actually however; the dealer could not replace them under warranty until they are blowing grease out all over and they only have drips coming out now. So, he would have the mechanic just tighten them up and wipe them off and at the next oil change we will see if they are leaking worse. When the same dealer thought during my oil change I'd have to pay to do them they seemed to think they should be done soon!

Now, the crunch noise. I don't know if any info. above may relate to this noise and am scared to death it maybe the drive axle which, when I first arrived for the whine the dealer service advisor threw out a "lets hope its not..." and said thats $2000. The mechanic though didn't say anything was wrong with the drive axle when they finished all the work and did the so called courtesy check after which revealed the axle boots having drips around their seams. I would think with the type of work they were doing and diagnosis for the steering whine and why, as well as the tie rod boot they would have known if the drive axle was bad too right?

OK, description of crunch. It sounds like marbles or rocks being crunched I guess. First more prominent on the passenger side when pulling into the driveway which has a little ramp and I turn into (and other inclines like this). Then also going straight, slow, up a little incline to my parking spot. I also hear it going straight, slow, if a road surface is a little wavy. I do NOT hear any sound simply tuning my wheel even if all the way, or turning onto another street or anything like that. It is becoming louder and more often now. And I can also now hear a little front end noise a baritone squeak not crunch which seems directly in front of the driver on the drivers side on wavy roads and road surface indents but that side is not as loud like the passenger side crunch noise.

Does this stuff sound like the Drive axle? Or maybe the axle boots the dealer "Tightened up" for now? Or maybe something with the Tie Rod since they removed it to slip the tie rod boot over it? Anything else seem like a more likely culprit maybe somehow connected to the things they already fixed???

Please any advice would be so greatly appreciated. I have to take it to be fixed and am afraid its the $2000. drive axle and I simply can't afford that. And certainly can't afford to be told its that only to have them replace it and then tell me its something else "too".

Thank you, Thank you, for any advice or opinions.

1 Answer
Flag This
  • Answer #1

    DaveJHM November 14, 2010, 22:09
    Profile_thumbnail
     Master

    Singlemom,

    Thank you for taking the time and making the effort to express your issues so well.

    My first concern is that your dealership of choice is acting a bit sloppy and a bit opportunistic. I don't necessarily think they are recommending something that is not needed, but it definitely does not feel good to be told something needs replaced....you tell them you are still under your 10 year/100,000 mile power train warranty...and now all of the sudden it doesn't need done.

    My explanation is that Hyundai as a manufacturer does not allow dealerships to perform "add on" warranty repairs. Meaning they are expressly not permitted to fix something they spot as failed under the warranty you have unless it is a severe safety issue. You, on the other hand, can tell them you know of a leak, and they are required to service it. I'm not sure if your axle boots are seeping enough to warrant a repair, but if they are, your warranty will cover them when you bring it to their attention.

    Further -- you are so concerned (and rightfully so!) about a drive axle issue, and the dealership is telling you it is going to cost all this money -- but your drive axle is also part of your 10/100 power train warranty!

    I feel also a bit negative about the tensioner - turned - power steering pump issue. May have been a misdiagnosis there too. You may want to check on the tensioner as being part of the 10/100 warranty... I am not entirely sure on that.

    Before anything else, I would truly seek another source for your maintenance and repair as at least an option. I'm not saying don't patronize the dealership you have been using, but I would certainly escalate your concerns to the service manager to make sure he/she understands you are not clear on things and are frustrated with your experience so far. A good service manager at a good dealership will hear your out and come up with a resolution you will be very happy with.

    You appear to be the type of customer dealerships and repair facilities really need and want. You service your car regularly, you heed good advice, and you are willing to do what it takes (within reason!) to take care of your investment. It is when you lose that confidence in what you are experiencing - for good reason - that your loyalty is at risk.

    Replacing a tie rod end, for example, for a torn boot - is extremely proactive, but not necessarily a safety issue. Eventually it would need replaced, but was it presented to you like that? Need verses recommend?

    Regarding that noise -- is it a steady, rhythmic noise that occurs, or a noise that cracks and stops?

    At the very least, a loyal customer like you should be getting a complimentary inspection from the dealership you have been good to. I wish for you a positive outcome.

    Flag This
  • Reply

    Visitor, November 15, 2010, 21:05

    Thank you Dave for your reply.

    The noise is not rhythmic if you mean constant? It's more crunch, crunch, and stop once I am over the incline or through the wavy, bumpy part of a road. Same with the other one on the drivers side but it is a deep squeak, squeak instead while going over the waves and bumps then stops once I am over the un-smooth surface. It does not make any noise on a smooth surface road. It is happening a lot more lately.

    I was not able to find on-line details about what specific parts are covered under the 10/100,000 mile warranty. So the Drive Axel is covered under it for the original owner? See I am pretty sure not only did the service advisor quote me a price if that was broken but said it was not covered. I am pretty sure I asked but I asked about TSB and recalls on all these parts so I am not sure if I asked about the warranty too.

    I felt the Tensioner was misdiagnosed too. They did it first I think made a mistake when the noise was still there and wasn't going to put the old one back on and not charge me for their mistake. I strongly felt that way and questioned "How was it both the sound was by the PS Pump". That's when they said I probably couldn't tell there were two things making noise because the power steering pump was so much louder, they could tell because they removed belts and listened to each pulley. I didn't think there was anything I could do about it and had to drop it.

    They didn't replace the tie rod when replacing the tie rod boot they put the old tie rod back on but had to remove it to slip the boot on they said so it would need an alignment after.

    The service advisor did say something like even though the Axel boots are under warranty they were not allowed to fix them yet because they would get in trouble or something to that effect. Something about them needing to be blowing oil all over the front end first and they are just seeping a little. Said they can't just fix things because they are a little bad. Even though when the mechanic the time before thought it would be a paid by me repair he said they should be replaced. I do feel they often try to get repairs if the customer is paying when there are still many more miles that the parts can go. They always do a courtesy check and always point out a few things "To be fixed or watched." I don't think its parts that are perfect that they point out just often parts a little worn that really have a lot more wear before they go. They did show me the drips seeping out of the Axel boots, and the ripped Tie rod boot. I just wonder if the Axel boots could be bad enough and could be the cause of this bad noise in my front end. Or the tie rod they messed with. Though the worst noise is on the passenger side and the tie rod they put the boot over was on the drivers side.

    This is the 2nd dealer in my area I have gone to. I had used 1st the dealer I purchased the truck from for years but was finding they had a bad habit of charging for maintenance things they didn't do. Like changing the plugs and wires then I have a misfire problem less then a year later and am told its the hard to reach spark plug that has clearly never been replaced. Also, paying for the service including changing fluids and I would find empty windshield washer fluid and an empty antifreeze overflow reservoir after they changed a badly leaking radiator hose. The fluid in the radiator was low too. They said the radiator must have had a burp and the antifreeze settled after but looked full before the burp, then they took it back into the shop and added more antifreeze. Lucky I checked the fluid before even leaving the dealership due to past experiences with them. This first dealer said they tuned up the transmission but this 2nd dealer said the transmission fluid was dirty and needed to be changed less then 11 months later. Don't know which dealer lied about the transmission the place I use to use that doesn't always do what they are paid for or the place I now use who always gives a list of "should do" stuff, which is the dealer I am speaking of now. I switched to this new dealer because of the lack luster service at the original one. Seems I can't win. I am getting a bad feeling about this new dealer too. I started by just doing an oil change with them to check them out. They did all the fluids and actually checked the vehicle as a courtesy with an oil change which, the first never bother to do, even if I paid them for the 36 pt (or something like that) check. However, even at that first oil change at this new dealer they found a list of things that the original dealer servicing my Santa Fe should have found. Like a worn ball joint which I did hear knocking., the dirty Transmission fluid. seeping Axel boots etc. I thought I'd finally found a dealer who was doing their job and I could trust. Now with a laundry list at every oil change with them (2 so far) or repair or schedule service I am not so sure.

    If the PS Tensioner Pulley turns out to have been covered under the 10/100.000 or the noise is a covered part and they try to charge me for it I will go to the service manager. Its why I want to know ahead of time what the noise maybe from so I am able to know my options when I go there for this. I feel so much like a lamb in a den of wolves whenever I have to get my truck repaired, which is a lot. The cost of all these repairs so close together have been a real hardship for me. If this noise is something expensive again to fix I don't know what I will do and as a single mom I also can't risk breaking down either, its horrible.

    Thank you so much for replying to me its very much appreciated.

    Flag This
  • Reply

    Singlemom, November 15, 2010, 21:13
    Profile_thumbnail
     Enthusiast

    The reply above was from me (singlemom). I replied without signing in sorry.

    Flag This
  • Reply

    DaveJHM, November 15, 2010, 22:53
    Profile_thumbnail
     Master

    Again, thank you for your detailed explanation.

    Regarding the noise, I suspect something in the steering or suspension in the front end is causing the noise, but until you pin point it, it will be hard to say if it is related to an axle or tie rod end.

    I will say that I am not familiar with the practice of replacing the tie rod end boot alone. I don't recall that being possible with a Hyundai, and am not familiar with that for any other car either. When the tie rod boot is torn, it's generally accepted that grease has escaped and corrosion has gone in -- so they replace the whole tie rod end. Perhaps indeed this could have something to do with your noise? Definitely clarify the part that was replaced. Tie rod ends tend to squeak on turns when they lose lube, as it is a ball and socket joint that swivels.

    The crunch noise could be stabilizer bar links, could be ball joint, could be a strut mount...too hard to tell unless the nosie is pin pointed.

    I do not feel the axles are causing your crunch noise. Seepage from a loose clamp or the start of a crack on your boot will typically not allow enough grease out to cause significant issues, or let any corrosion in. This is why it's a good "watch" item, regardless of who is paying. I would be certain the parts get repaired before your 10/100 is up, however, as you certainly are entitled.

    Again, to explain Hyundai's rule from first hand experience: Adding on warranty repairs while the car is in the shop is against Hyundai warranty policy. A technician cannot find a problem and then "sell" it to Hyundai to pay for under warranty. Only in extreme circumstances can this be done, such as a part falling off of the car that is safety related. I can see why they can't do the job for you, and yes -- I share the discomfort with you about how they've handled the situation. They are obviously not showing you they are very knowledgable about you or your warranty status by not doing basic follow through, like consulting their Hyundai dealer web site to get your owner information, warranty information, etc. This is supposed to be done in all cases "behind the scenes" so they should be able to speak to you educatedly.

    I doubt the Power Steering Pump is covered by 10/100. I'm not certain about the tensioner pulley.

    I would go to the service manager regardless with all you have typed here online. They should know and be able to show you they care. That is what the manager is there for, really! He or she could make all the difference for you in restoring confidence and loyalty.

    Continued luck on this issue!

    Reply
    Flag This
Answer Ranks