The ground inside mass air flow (MAF) sensor can corrode and possibly cause drivability problems. The corrosion is enough to affect the sensor data but not enough to create a trouble code. Diagnosing this can be difficult because it won't always illuminate the Check Engine Light.
Drivability Concerns Due to Corroded Ground Inside the Mass Air Flow Sensor on Nissan Maxima
Average mileage: 150,226 (75,000–214,000)
27 people reported this problem
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Viewing 1 - 9 of 9 comments
Replaced MAF, CKP(REF) and CKP(POS), Drives fine until I floor it and the car loses all power and the RPM's just go "vroom vroom vroom vroom etc." and then stalls. Sometimes it acts like the timing is really off but then if I turn off the car, sometimes in neutral, sometimes I have to put it in park in order to restart my car. If I pull the plug on the MAF and step on the accelerator it does the same thing described above with the vrooming and the RPM's stay right in 2000 and revs to 2500 and then back down to 2000. This happens when I'm holding my foot steady on the accelerator and loses all power. The only thing that I can do is turn off the car or just hold my foot at about 10-20% down on the accelerator without moving it and sometimes it just bogs out when I press down on the pedal. It doesn't matter if I'm parked and idleing, driving down the freeway at 75mph or stopped at a traffic light. I was told it is a grounding issue. Only problem is, there are about 200 grounds on this car and I don't know where to start. I found one guy who enjoys working on his off time and has been working on nissan maximas for several years. I'm taking it to him on monday and leaving it for 3 or 4 days. I will post the solution. SoooooOOO many people have this issue and nobody can figure it out. I have faith in this mechanic, he knows these cars inside and out like the back of his hand, so wish me luck and I hope I can help appease some minds and help some people who own one of these vehicles.
Came out this morning to start my car and after i let it warm up i put it in drive and it moved slowly so i pressed the gas and the car barely moved. I let the car sit for about ten minutes then it finally moved but wouldn't go faster then 50mph.
I run into the issue of the car bucking and dying going down the road at speed. After a few weeks, the issue became worse as it was now dying at any speed and sometimes at idle. I fought with this issue for several months and scanned the car. No check engine light, only a MAF sensor problem. My wife finally had enough and talked me into replacing the MAF sensor and I looked around for one on the NET but the prices were too expensive for me, so I called my favorite auto scrap yard and they sent me one for $70.00 including shipping. Here is where it gets exciting. I removed the snorkle and the MAF sensor and was looking around and guess what.. There is O-ring type flat gasket between the MAF sensor and the throat of the injection system and it was split in a couple of places. I took it off and it had hardened up to the point of failing and letting too much air in. I siliconed the gasket and replaced it and the issue never came back.
Check engine light came on. Found out it was mass flow sensor replaced it myself for $230.
stalling, hesitating, no power at take off, occasionally shook, took alot of replacing parts to figure it out but was the MAF!!
Happened to me at 145,000 miles..car was in "limp" home mode. Would not go our 50 mph on highway. Awful. Changed the sensor and all was good. You. Can use the sensor from Infiniti j30 too. You will also need to change the screws holding the sensor wire..a special tool is needed . HTH
Car idles fine only time problem begins is when under throttle it boggs for a few seconds then goes away
Cost about $300 to fix at dealer in 2006. I am guessing it would be $500 now.