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2001 Ford Escape Question: coldenginestartproblem

 

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Ramaz, 3.0L V6, Arlington Heights, IL, February 20, 2009, 00:22
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Over the last 3 weeks I have had problems starting my Escape either in the morning or after sitting in a parking garage for 8 hours. The car starts but dies almost immediately,There are no problems once I'm driving

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  • Answer #1

    February 20, 2009, 14:12
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     Master

    It sounds like your car may have a dirty throttle body and/or a poorly functioning Idle Air Control Valve. When the car is first started cold ( and you live where it gets really cold ) the engine must idle faster, say 1500 rpm until the combustion chambers warm up. Once the engine is warmed up, it can idle much slower because combustion is then much more efficient. The fact that your car runs better when it is warmer and driving is more evidence that supports this thesis. How many miles are on your Ford? Have you or your mechanic ever checked the throttle body? It should be cleaned every 30K or so. Even though some Ford throttle bodies have a yellow sign that says that they can not be cleaned, this is due to the plastic parts in the Idle Air Control Valve. One can CAREFULLY wipe out the throttle body with a shop towel that has some throttle body cleaner on it ( and not have to spray anything in to the throttle body itself ) and really clean the throttle body.

    After you replaced the IAC and cleaned the throttle body, you need to do an idle adaption reset. This involves, starting the car which may take several tries and holding your foot on the throttle until it runs. Then slowly take your foot off the throttle and let the engine idle for 3-4 minutes. Then, without moving the car, put it in drive and let it idle ( with your foot on the brake ) for another 3-4 minutes, then, while it is still in drive, turn on the A/C for 3-4 minutes and let it idle. Do this when it is already warm.
    Do you ever get a Check Engine Light On? If so, having this code retrieved could really help. How is your maintenance i.e are you plugs etc fresh and of good quality. What type of IAC did you get. Ford's have very carefully calibrated IACs and need to have the calibration number checked and matched. If one is purchased from a generic parts store, it often will not perform correctly.

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    Ramaz, February 21, 2009, 13:27
     Rookie

    I have changed IAC (idle air contor) valve and also cleaned throttle body but this problem is still.My escape are on 155000 miles

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    Ramaz, February 23, 2009, 08:48
     Rookie

    I'm about your suggest
    "After you replaced the IAC and cleaned the throttle body, you need to do an idle adaption reset. This involves, starting the car which may take several tries and holding your foot on the throttle until it runs. Then slowly take your foot off the throttle and let the engine idle for 3-4 minutes. Then, without moving the car, put it in drive and let it idle ( with your foot on the brake ) for another 3-4 minutes, then, while it is still in drive, turn on the A/C for 3-4 minutes and let it idle. Do this when it is already warm."
    please don't mind for disturbing you I want to know how can I do this process. May I do it on cold engine or on warm.
    And also my check engine tight is on
    thank you

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  • Medium-star Best Answer
    August 08, 2010, 21:34
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     Master

    Sounds like a problem with the intake gaskets/o-rings.The problem is more pronounced when it is cold out and the engine is stone cold,the o-ring gaskets are as hard as a rock and suck air passed them.

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    Visitor, January 11, 2011, 09:43

    I had this same issue with my Escape. I had multiple mechanics look at it. They proposed different solutions, and repaired or replaced other components, none of which fixed the problem. Once the upper and lower intake manifold gaskets were replaced, it ran like a champ.

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    Visitor, February 20, 2011, 19:36

    Hats off to double. Had the same problem. Wouldnt hardly stay running til it warmed up. I did my research online (Thanks bmdouble) and just finished the gaskets today. It now runs like the day I bought it. This was a gradually get worse problem and finally I had to address it. Its kind of a pain if its done yourself. But definetly worth it.

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    Driley, January 19, 2013, 05:57
     Rookie

    A pain doing it yourself is definitely better than paying $100.00 per hour to have it repaired.

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  • Answer #3

    Visitor, October 20, 2010, 01:29

    All of the following answers are correct and I would recommend changing your IAC as well your intake manifold O-rings for good measure. Also, be certain that you also replace the gasket on the IAC as well. And, yes it has a gasket!

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    Driley, January 19, 2013, 05:54
     Rookie

    It sounds like my problem. I've changed the I A C valve, the top hose from the engine to the P C V valve and the hose from the engine to the Evac purge valve. After I've done all of this stuff the engine gets better for a little while, then goes back to what it was doing before. When the engine is having this idle problem if I rev the engine up it sounds like it has a rev limiter on it or it is starving for fuel.

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