1997 Chrysler Town & Country Questions
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It's surging leaping and there's a popping noise coming from under the hood. The rpm gauges are jumping also
Trac off light stays on .
Got a diagnostic test on the car and was told it was the hydraulic pump. I have no idea what that is. The car doesn't start after it sits for a long period (over night) jump starts easily and will usually restart after a short period of time.
Goes into neutral every time driving hwy.stop restart drives then shifts back to neutral again.please help
My 1997 Town and Country has many issues but this constant stalling is unacceptable and unsolvable. It had the typical stalling issue due to instrument cluster solder joints and that has been fixed. It was inspected last year and the EGR and cam sensor were replaced. The stalling began again in ernest. It starts cold and runs fine for 10 seconds to 2 minutes and dies. It restarts runs a few seconds and dies....starts dies, starts dies (harder to start as it gets warm) until the engine gets hot. Then it has to sit and think, I guess for 5-10 minutes then starts and runs fairly well, but stalls at lights. Have to keep "heel and toeing" it to keep it running.
Replaced crank sensor, coil pack, plugs and wires, as suggested by scan numbers read by parts store. (Forget that) re-sealed intake manifold and injectors, checked vacuum lines and cleaned the throttle body, and tps. Separated the melted wires to the upper O2 sensor. (makes me wonder about the rest of the wiring)
Map sensor seems fine but the signal voltages seem upside down at 1.3 not running and 4.8 in idle. Recent fuel pump and filter, and swapped out fuel pump and asd relays. Also replaced the battery, worn out by restarting.
All this and there has been no major change for the good or bad.
I've learned from this that codes only point at a condition affecting a part, not necessarily at a bad part and a condition may not throw any codes at all leaving us in the same place we were 40 years ago, but worse.
Before I spend another cent or lose all my hair, does anyone have any other suggestions?
My car seems to run just fine when started however after shifting into gear easily it will drive fine until it gets warm then it starts to stall as if it no longer wants to go any faster than 30 or 40 miles an hour, though it will make it home 5miles away but rather slowly. There is also a whining noise coming from the left front fender area. What could that be? Also my windows works when they want to, the dash light is off and the gages works when they want to. There has to be some form of logical explanation for these issues. Can anyone suggest any fixes?
Got a oil change and still light n bell going off only when I'm going 55+mph. Is this dangerous?Its horrible annoying and I have a 8 hr trip coming up
Would die occasionally while driving, but would restart immediately, about 2 weeks ago it did again but now won't start till a couple hours later, can drive about 2 blocks maybe, before it dies
Car only goes into gear when the rpms are elevated
It has been in the shop for 5 days and they always say it's air in the line
I recently had a new trans installed in my 97 town & Country. Not sure if this is related but now when I'm accelerating the van pulls to the left and when I'm coasting the van tracks straight. The van was not pulling before we had the transmission changed.
Kinda hear it go into gear but won't grab. What should I check
I was not driving down the road, it blew out the steering wheel and the dashboard above the glove box, and it blew my vents in the back, and filled up with gunpowder smoke. I never cranked it but have been driving it, and sometimes when I closed the door the front wipers would just turn on for no reason and then stop. But now it cranks but the instrument panel works when it wants too. Going to town the gas gauge works, but not going home. The rpm & speedometer gauges mostly don't work, nor the digital gauges on the ceiling don't work if the dash panel don't. The engine light, alarm set, ABS, & battery lights stay on in the dashboard panel. There was a recall for this reason announced in November 2002, and they claim it's not good if more than 70,000 miles, but that shouldn't matter, what if I was driving down the road 55 mph? Any suggestions? Should I look into seeing a lawyer. I've done some research and it sounds like a wire needs soldered behind the "Cluster" what ever that means.
Lights on the Instrument panel flickers then will turn on after a mile driven. That goes on with A/C too