Truck ran this morning, got to work, my fiancee drove to McDonald's, got back in truck it wouldn't crank.

All my gauges are fine. 6.2 liter with 176k miles. When engine runs it will like skip. Then almost home it hesitated and then I noticed my RPM gauge was dead.

It stays at the right temp when not hooked up

Has been in 2 shops changed tps injector spark plug checked value spring checked cam checked compression engine held pressure test still has misfire checked new plug had black sud built up on it put new one back in still had misfire they still don't know what causes misfire

2011 chevy siverado 1500 the ac went out found a o-ring blew out on the high pressure line by the dryer, what causes this, changed it out and charged the system and wored good, next day ac low again, it held vacuum for a good 30 minutes and the ac was good and cold

Before the messages came on DIC, I noticed engine seems to be derated. Almost feels like a brake dragging. The throttle position sensor has been replaced several Thousand miles ago. 155,270 miles on truck now. Have also had repeated issues with P0446- clean evap vent and that seems to be resolved.

I had the same problem with my 2000 Silverado. This 2011 has the same symptoms. It sound like you have a loose shock bolt on the suspension and there is a spot when you turn you can feel a clunk in the steering wheel. I contacted gm a year ago & they insisted it wasn't that. Truk has 33000 miles on it now I purchased it new and it is aggravating to hear the constant noise.

Shows 18% oil pressure. Is the problem related?

I have to jumpstart my truck every time i try to start it.

First how can i get a wiring diagram of this truck and where is the component sending signal to tpms sensors. All of them work intermittently. Secondly if i drive my truck long distances the charging voltage from alternator drops to 12.9v and the battery is fine. When i start truck even in cold its fine but charging voltage on dash reads 16v but soon as i dri e it it drops to 14.18~. I replaced alternator thinking regulator was going out but soon as i drive distances again it starts to act up. Where might my problems be based on readers experiences. Please email IJ_Minter@yahoo.com if you have any ideas. Thank you.

Just started, tried changing out the main control fuse module. Auto supply thinks it's the heat sending unit