Erratic Fuel Gauge Operation

Steering May Develop Clunk Noise From Upper Intermediate Steering Shaft

Check Engine Light Due to Gas Cap Issue

The rear hatch hinges may not meet the load requirement as specified in the federal safety standards. In the event of a crash, the rear hatch could separate from the vehicle, increasing the risk of injury. Dealers will replace both rear hatch hinges to correct this concern. The General Motors recall number is 11258

The right rear brake hose may contact the tire or wheel rim, which can cause a hole to be worn into the brake hose. This may result in fluid loss, which would reduce the effectiveness of the rear brakes and increase the risk of a crash. Dealers will secure the right rear brake hose to ensure sufficient clearance. This recall is expected to begin by May 13, 2011. The General Motors recall number is 11126.

The intermediate steering shaft attaching bolts may not have been tightened to the proper specification. This could allow the steering shaft to separate. The driver could experience a loss of steering ability, increasing the risk of a crash. Dealers will inspect and ensure the intermediate steering shaft bolts are tightened to the proper specification. This recall is expected to begin on July 13, 2011. The General Motors recall number is 11191.

I bought my 2001 monte carlo LS at 49,000 miles on it. Worked sooo good until about 100k miles when the manifold went out. I didnt even realize until now (100k miles) that none of the cigarette lighters worked. For some reason the place i bought it from said the entire engine needed to be replaced, so we replaced the engine with a new one with who knows how many miles. I dont even know if we needed it but i'm not a mechanic so i just trusted them and wasted around 1100 dollars. (McFerrin motors in Texas, i believe they are snakes)
After they repaired that, the radio didnt get reception either, or just barely sometimes. Now at around 149k miles, there is a huge amount of electrical problems. 3 batteries and 1 new alternator later, it finally starts and drives again. The blinkers work whenever they want because of a faulty control unit which also works as the emergency light activator. The AC compressor doesnt stay on for more than 30 seconds because the engine falsely thinks that the engine coolant is low. I had the temp sensor on the engine replaced to fix the readdout on the instrument cluster, which is always at 0 degrees UNTIL i disconnect the battery for a while, then then the heat starts readin, the ac compressor turns back on and etc. Now it also has ABS issues. There is a loud noise when i start off from a halt but it stops when i take my foot off the gas pedal. After this happens a ton of lights come on, like ABS warning and etc. i didnt know it but when i got the car originally the radiator must have busted, or the person who owned it was trying to fix the manifold themselves by FILLING the radiator with stopleak, which caused the car to run very warm all the time until i replaced the radiator. None of the power locks work anymore. WTF. they stopped working at about 100k miles. The windows still go up and down, and also the trunk open button stopped working as well. This thing is an electrical nightmare. It did serve me very well for 60k miles, but was not worth the 12g's i spent on it. Slow, bad handling. The one thing it had going for it was amazing brakes. Really, sincerely amazing brakes. However now the ABS light comes on now when i start driving. I really, really hate this car. Not because its a chevy because i dig Chevy products, its because this one I ended up with was such a rotten lemon. I have put so much money into this and have gotten a barely decent, crappy radio sounding ride in return. If i could go back in time and warn myself not to buy it, I'd just tell myself "Lets look at a truck, instead. A ford truck." Tommorow some poor sap is coming to pay me 2000 for it, or he says he is. Lets wait until he test drives it. For the love of god let me sell this car. - Sincerely, Rick.

P.S. When I turn the wheel it makes a cracky popping noise. I guess from what i read on the other reviews, an intermediate drive shaft? :/ god damn front wheel drive cars.
Also turns out the type of radiator fluid that is in these cars becomes extra acidic under certain conditions and replacing the intake manifold gasket becomes neccessary on every single car after a while. There was even a class action lawsuit that provided people with x amount of money to repair it.

I bought my 2000 Silverado 2500 HD when it was a year and a half old with a little over 5000 miles. I now have 58,800 miles on it and still pull my 5th wheel RV with it. It still has the original brake pads which are about half worn. It also still has factory exhaust. The most major problem I've had was electrical, blowing the brake fuse (found worn wire under steering column where it goes through the dash. Caused by tilting the steering wheel. The protective cover around the wire bundle is fastened by velcro and came loose, letting the wire rub. You may want to check this).

Chevy POS is what they should have named it. It always needs something done to it even though I take complete care of it with good gas not the cheap water crap, plus I add gas additives routinely, and I get all the routine maintenance. I have always taken good care of my car and usually never have a problem, but this one is nothing but a money pit. Not my first car but my first Chevy and definitely my last. Skip Chevy and get a Trabi or a Yugo it will definitely run better, faster, and get better gas mileage.