Hey all, maybe you can help me out. My check engine light came on last week, the computer diagnosis said it was the crank shaft position sensor. I had that fixed, and the light was still on. Next the mechanic said it was the CAM sensor (I think). Had that replaced with tune up and oil change. Still on. The symptoms are as follows: 1. Check engine light is on. 2. TCS lights are on (both the car on slippery surface logo and the one that says TCS OFF flashes) 3. Car rattles when I accelerate and the RPMs stall frequently when I stop accelerating. The needle just drops to zero and hops back up. Has anyone had similar issues? The mechanic was clueless about these problems (which makes me wonder why I gave him the money to diagnose the problem in the first place....) The things that may be causing the problems that i have pulled from later model Mazda 6i issues were: bad tensioner pulley exhaust leak on the manifold the hydraulic valve lash adjustor? or out of date software on the powertrain control module. Any help at all would go a long way to fixing my headache. Advil only goes so far....
check engine light on, TCS lights (both) on, rattle during acceleration on 2005 Mazda Mazda6
by kmill.arch in Central, SC on April 10, 2011
2 answers 1 comment
ANSWER by DaveJM on April 11, 2011
The check engine light and ABS system lights should really help with good clues. They should lead you towards looking at a few focused areas for diagnosis. Guessing at this point from a technical position is tough without knowing those clues. My initial thoughts are that you probably have multiple issues. Something like a vehicle speed sensor (VSS) failure could affect both engine performance and ABS systems. Alternatively, an air intake or vacuum leak could feed too much air into the engine and inspire stalling. Start with a good diagnosis - get a different opinion if your mechanic is "clueless"...
ANSWER by keviho6969 on March 02, 2013
I HAVE A MADZA 6 I'M WORKING ON NOW THAT IS DOING THE SAME THING, I WAS JUST WONDERING WHAT YOU FOUND OUT , THE CAR HAS BEEN TO SEVERAL MECHANICS WITH NO LUCK, IT'S BARELY RUNNING BUT IT WILL RUN GOOD AT 2000RPM. JUST AS SOON AS IT HITS 2000 THE TACH DROPS TO 0 & the TCS LIGHTS COME ON THE CAR WILL ONLY RUN SMOOTH AT 2000-2200 RPM
COMMENT by marty121 on December 28, 2014
Hi. I was wondering if you ever figured out what was causing the problem with the tach dropping out and the TCS lights on.