Problem Description and Possible Solution
Problems with the accelerator pedal position switch may cause the Check Engine Light to illuminate; an improved switch is available to fix this problem.
Problem DataRepairPal Verified
Average mileage: 96,246 (12,000–300,000)
Engines affected: 2.0L 4 Cylinder, 2.4L 4 Cylinder, 2.7L V6, 3.0L V6, 3.3L V6, 3.5L V6
12 model years affected: 1997
, more2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2015
75 people reported this problem
I've been having the same problem with the accelerator pedal. I was driving on the parkway, going about 60 MPH, and suddenly the ESC OFF light came on and I couldn't get the car to go above 20 MPH. Very dangerous when driving on a crowded highway. I pulled off to the side and restarted the car. It happened several more times on my drive to work. Taking it to the dealer today.
while driving, the accelerator pedal suddenly stopped working and the 'check engine' light came on. the engine was still on at idle. i coasted to a stop, turned it off, and restarted. the accelerator started working, but the 'check engine' light is still on. not yet fixed.
Pedal will be all the way down to the floor and still only going 20mph and creeping. Every now and then the transmission doesn't know what gear to be in so sometimes it doesn't go to first of 4th gear.
Check engine light came on; no acceleration; car would not go faster than 20mph; turned it off, waited a while, and it drove normally, but check engine light was still on. Have not had it repaired yet.
While driving the engine malfunction and ESC lights came on and the car lost all power. I coasted to the side of the road and turned the car off, then on. The ESC light went off, but the malfunction light stayed on and continues to stay. The car seems to drive OK.
First noticed weak acceleration at low rpms and then acceleration would kick in suddenly at around 2200 rpm. This happened for a couple of weeks and then one day while driving about 60mph, the check engine light came on as well as the ESC off light and my gas pedal was to the floor but wasn't doing anything. Coasted to the side of the road and turned off engine. I restarted the engine and the gas pedal seemed to work again, but still with the delayed acceleration in low rpms. (I have the automatic transmission v6:I also tried each gear using the manual shifter and each gear performs in the same delayed way)
check engine light comes on. Trouble code (p2135) No power, engine just idles. Turn off the ignition and back on it works fine. Check engine light stays lit for awhile then goes out.
the car wants to quit every time that we made a stop, and we run a diagnostic and the computer said that was the coil #1 that is wasn't working and also the cap of the gas wasn't good, so we change the coil for a new one, but keeps doing the same thing, also we change the spark plugs, and cables and it keeps doing the same thing, when we stop and want to continue the car startle an it feels that the vehicle is going to quit or when it start moving it fells like it doesn't want to run..
I have the same problem, ESC off light and check engine light come on. Engine won't accelerate, if you turn the car off then start it it'll run fine. Check engine light will stay on but will go off after awhile. I happened to be in rush hour traffic on I95 near Richmond VA when it happened once and couldn't get off or out of traffics way, very dangerous. Hyundai dealerships act stupid when they are asked about it. Very, very dangerous problem.
CEL and ESC light on codes were throttle position sensor. Dealer replaced sensor cost $148.00 total.
Car won't accelerate faster than 30 mph. Haven't had it fixed yet.
problem started yesterday evening I was going on about 30-40 miles an hour and all of a sudden it felt like when your gear shifter gets kicked in the neutral when you're driving all the sudden it just loses power and light just gives out and then you have to let off the gas and then it accelerates again but very dangerous when I was merging onto 66 with his like 95 where I live and all the sudden I need to get up to 60 miles an hour and my car is about at 35 and they kicked down to 20 because it won't go anywhere very scary on my way to the dealership now to get the problem fixed the check engine light came on this morning and it has gotten worse since last night went to the Hyundai dealership by my house they told me to drop it off and they wouldn't be able to look at it for 2 weeks I've paid $5000 for an extra warranty they're going to give me a loaner car the place near my house so they didn't have any loan or bars I said should i driving around like this for 2 weeks six thousand miles on it and has been through every recommended service they offer
Every time I try to accelerate my car jerks. It feels like its a manual and I'm trying to shift gears, but its not a manual car. I have to slowly accelerate to 40 mph, and my car won't go faster than that.
I was in stop and go traffic and could barely accelerate. After I turned the car off and on again it was fine. The ESC light and check engine light both came on. The check engine light remained on. I am being quoted $500 to replace the gas pedal.
When I step on the gas pedal, there is no acceleration. Seems like the car is going to die. Check engine light came on
Had gas pedal replaced twice. This will be the third time. Car has only 38000 miles
ESL light and check engine lights keep going on and off.
Engine light comes off when it is hot. It happened first the in 2014 Summer couple of times. It went off. It has come back in 2015 Summer. Same Symptoms as described. The codes are P2106, P2127 and P2138. _ Faulty Accelerator Padel Position Sensor.
Poor gas mileage, doesn't shift right ,check engine light is on, rough idle, tachometer doesn't work, dash clock works occasionally
Esc light comes on. Car looses power have to turn car of and back on then ok. Dealer says the whole engine needs to be changed.